2014 chevy silverado transmission replacement cost
5.3 AFM Issue
2023.06.03 17:09 MrJaqueliusDaniels 5.3 AFM Issue
I have a 2014 Silverado, and have low compression in cylinder 7. From the research I've done, it is an issue with the AFM system. How common is this issue? Mechanic is talking whole top end rebuild with AFM delete. Has Chevy addressed it at all? Thanks
submitted by
MrJaqueliusDaniels to
Chevrolet [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 16:57 tossxthexsalad Where to buy a transfer case that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg?
Getting the transmission replaced in my 2007 silverado 1500 vortec max. I have a cracked transfer case and mechanic advised this is the time to replace it if that’s what I wanted to do.
Could I get one from a wrecking yard or are transfer cases something I should buy new?
submitted by
tossxthexsalad to
ChevyTrucks [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 15:00 truckrepairinplano The Road to Reliability: Unveiling the Top Diesel Mechanic Services in Plano
2023.06.03 14:21 SwannSwanchez Dev Server Datamine 2.26.0.25 -> 2.26.0.34 Part 5
2.26.0.25 -> 2.26.0.34 Part 5
- Functionalities : Battle Auto Start : Gaijin, Devs, Testers -> Everyone
- Number of French Bluewater to unlock rank 5 : 2 -> 1
- "Invincible Yak Pilot" challenge can now also be achieved with the Yak-9B, Yak-28B, Yak-38, Yak-38M and Yak-141
BR changes :
- R3 T 20 FA-HS : 4.7 / 5.0 / 5.0 -> 4.7 / 5.7 / 5.7
- BTR-80A : 5.7 -> 7.0
- Type 87 RCV (P) : 5.7 -> 7.3
- Vijayanta : 7.3 / 7.7 / 7.7 -> 8.0
Statcard and X-Ray changes :
- F-100A :
- Engine model : J57P7 -> J57P21
- Engine mass : 900 -> 2361 kg
- Max Speed : 1370.16 -> 1458 km/h
- Climb Speed : 121 -> 132 m/s
- F-100D (all) :
- Engine mass : 900 -> 2361 kg
- Max Speed : 1458 -> 1432.8 km/h
- Climb Speed : 79.2 -> 105 m/s
- Object 435 :
- Hull Thickness : [100.0, 80.0, 45.0] -> [120.0, 80.0, 40.0] mm
- Turret Thickness : [200.0, 160.0, 66.0] -> [250.0, 160.0, 65.0] mm
- Vijayanta : Operator country : UK -> India
- Ise :
- Citadel Thickness : [224.0, 299.0, 32.0] -> [200.0, 300.0, 32.0] mm
- Anti-torpedo bulge = 250 mm
- Jeanne d'Arc : Max Speed : 50.04 -> 51.48 km/h
New vehicles:
- GL 832 HY (FR) :
- Rank 1
- BR : 1.3
- Hidden
- Non-researchable vehicle
- Stock Repair Cost : 230 / 420 / 130 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 283 / 517 / 160 SL
- PBY-5A (late) (FR) :
- Rank 1
- BR : 1.7 / 1.7 / 2.0
- 550 GE premium
- Repair Cost : 180 / 230 / 180 SL
- Paris (FR) :
- Rank 5
- BR : 6.3
- Located after the Colbert
- Stock Repair Cost : 18220 / 24340 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 22884 / 30571 SL
- Lorraine (FR) :
- Rank 5
- BR : 6.7
- Located after the Paris
- Stock Repair Cost : 22910 / 32110 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 28774 / 40330 SL
Tech-tree changes:
- BTR-80A (USSR) :
- Rank : 4 -> 5
- Located after the PT-76B -> Located after the SU-100P
- ASU-85 (USSR) : Located after the BTR-80A -> Located after the PT-76B
- BMP-1 (USSR) : Located after the SU-100P -> Located after the BTR-80A
- Vijayanta (UK) :
- Hidden for everyone -> Shown for everyone
- 8200 GE premium -> 8560 GE premium
- Type 87 RCV (P) (JP) :
- Rank : 4 -> 5
- Located after the M4A3(76)W -> Located after the Type 60 APC (ATM-1)
- M41A1 (JP) : Located after the Type 87 RCV (P) -> Located after the M4A3(76)W
- Type 87 RCV (JP) : Located after the Type 60 APC (ATM-1) -> Located after the Type 87 RCV (P)
- VBCI 2 (MCT-30) (FR) : Hidden for everyone -> Shown for everyone
Economy changes :
- A-6E (TRAM) :
- Number of modifications needed to unlock Tier 4 : 3 -> 4
- Modification changes : Added NVD as Tier 3 modification
- Étendard IV M :
- Stock Repair Cost : 3590 / 10810 / 19890 -> 4150 / 12510 / 23020 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 4878 / 14690 / 27030 -> 5639 / 17001 / 31284 SL
- Modification changes :
- Airframe :
- Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Fuselage repair
- Added Category : Flight performance
- New boosters : Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Compressor
- Wings repair : Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Airframe
- Engine : Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : New boosters
- Cover :
- Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Wings repair
- Added Category : Flight performance
- G-suit : Added Category : Survivability
- F-14B :
- Stock Repair Cost : 4560 / 9160 / 15250 -> 4160 / 8360 / 13920 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 7542 / 15150 / 25223 -> 7542 / 15156 / 25236 SL
- Modification changes :
- Added NVD as Tier 1 modification
- 20 mm air targets belt : Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : G-suit
- Compressor :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.045 -> 0.049
- GE cost : 450 -> 460
- Fuselage repair :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.008 -> 0.009
- GE cost : 450 -> 460
- LAU-10/A : GE cost : 450 -> 460
- LANTIRN : GE cost : 450 -> 460
- Flares/Chaff :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.136 -> 0.149
- GE cost : 450 -> 460
- Flares/Chaff BOL :
- Added Required modification : Flares/Chaff
- Tier : 1 -> 2
- RP cost : 18000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 450 -> 440
- New boosters :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.025 -> 0.027
- RP cost : 20000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 490 -> 440
- Airframe :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.056 -> 0.062
- RP cost : 20000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 490 -> 440
- 20 mm belts :
- Removed Previous modification (visually, not required) : Flares/Chaff
- RP cost : 20000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 490 -> 440
- Mk82 :
- RP cost : 20000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 490 -> 440
- GBU-12 :
- RP cost : 20000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 490 -> 440
- AIM-7M :
- RP cost : 20000 -> 17000
- GE cost : 490 -> 440
- Wings repair :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.064 -> 0.071
- GE cost : 470 -> 490
- G-suit :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.063 -> 0.069
- GE cost : 470 -> 490
- New 20 mm cannons/MGs :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.018 -> 0.02
- GE cost : 470 -> 490
- Mk83 : GE cost : 470 -> 490
- GBU-16 : GE cost : 470 -> 490
- AIM-9L : GE cost : 470 -> 490
- AIM-54A : GE cost : 470 -> 490
- Engine :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.096 -> 0.105
- GE cost : 720 -> 750
- Cover :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.055 -> 0.06
- GE cost : 720 -> 750
- EFS :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.088 -> 0.096
- GE cost : 720 -> 750
- Mk84 : GE cost : 720 -> 750
- GBU-10 : GE cost : 720 -> 750
- AIM-54C : GE cost : 720 -> 750
- F-100A : Modification changes :
- Added Mk82 as Tier 1 modification
- Fuselage repair : GE cost : 320 -> 340
- Compressor : GE cost : 320 -> 340
- M116A2 : GE cost : 320 -> 340
- M117 :
- Added Required modification : Mk82
- Tier : 1 -> 2
- RP cost : 10000 -> 9100
- GE cost : 320 -> 310
- Airframe :
- RP cost : 11000 -> 9100
- GE cost : 350 -> 310
- New boosters :
- RP cost : 11000 -> 9100
- GE cost : 350 -> 310
- 20 mm belts :
- RP cost : 11000 -> 9100
- GE cost : 350 -> 310
- AGM-12B Bullpup :
- RP cost : 11000 -> 9100
- GE cost : 350 -> 310
- Wings repair : GE cost : 550 -> 580
- M65 : GE cost : 550 -> 580
- AIM-9B : GE cost : 550 -> 580
- Cover : GE cost : 420 -> 440
- Engine : GE cost : 420 -> 440
- G-suit : GE cost : 420 -> 440
- New 20 mm cannons/MGs : GE cost : 420 -> 440
- AIM-9E : GE cost : 420 -> 440
- J8F : Modification changes :
- Removed PL11 modification
- Compressor : GE cost : 350 -> 330
- Fuselage repair : GE cost : 350 -> 330
- Flares/Chaff : GE cost : 350 -> 330
- 23 mm belts : GE cost : 350 -> 330
- PL5B : GE cost : 350 -> 330
- New boosters :
- RP cost : 24000 -> 30000
- GE cost : 400 -> 470
- Airframe :
- RP cost : 24000 -> 30000
- GE cost : 400 -> 470
- G-suit :
- RP cost : 24000 -> 30000
- GE cost : 400 -> 470
- HF-6 :
- RP cost : 24000 -> 30000
- GE cost : 400 -> 470
- PL8 :
- Tier : 2 -> 3
- RP cost : 24000 -> 44000
- GE cost : 400 -> 690
- Wings repair : GE cost : 730 -> 690
- New 23 mm cannons/MGs : GE cost : 730 -> 690
- Engine : GE cost : 710 -> 670
- Cover : GE cost : 710 -> 670
- EFS : GE cost : 710 -> 670
- Type 250 : GE cost : 710 -> 670
- MiG-23MF :
- Stock Repair Cost : 3340 / 7720 / 11900 -> 3790 / 8770 / 13510 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 5524 / 12768 / 19682 -> 5510 / 12751 / 19643 SL
- Modification changes :
- Compressor : Repair cost coefficient : 0.045 -> 0.039
- Fuselage repair : Repair cost coefficient : 0.008 -> 0.007
- Flares/Chaff : Removed Repair cost coefficient : 0.136
- New boosters : Repair cost coefficient : 0.025 -> 0.022
- Airframe : Repair cost coefficient : 0.056 -> 0.049
- Wings repair : Repair cost coefficient : 0.064 -> 0.057
- G-suit : Repair cost coefficient : 0.063 -> 0.055
- New 23 mm cannons/MGs : Repair cost coefficient : 0.018 -> 0.016
- Engine : Repair cost coefficient : 0.096 -> 0.084
- Cover : Repair cost coefficient : 0.055 -> 0.048
- EFS : Repair cost coefficient : 0.088 -> 0.077
- MiG-23M :
- Stock Repair Cost : 3410 / 8560 / 13770 -> 3870 / 9720 / 15640 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 5640 / 14158 / 22775 -> 5626 / 14132 / 22740 SL
- Modification changes :
- Compressor : Repair cost coefficient : 0.045 -> 0.039
- Fuselage repair : Repair cost coefficient : 0.008 -> 0.007
- Flares/Chaff : Removed Repair cost coefficient : 0.136
- New boosters : Repair cost coefficient : 0.025 -> 0.022
- Airframe : Repair cost coefficient : 0.056 -> 0.049
- Wings repair : Repair cost coefficient : 0.064 -> 0.057
- G-suit : Repair cost coefficient : 0.063 -> 0.055
- New 23 mm cannons/MGs : Repair cost coefficient : 0.018 -> 0.016
- Engine : Repair cost coefficient : 0.096 -> 0.084
- Cover : Repair cost coefficient : 0.055 -> 0.048
- EFS : Repair cost coefficient : 0.088 -> 0.077
- Mirage 2000 C S5 :
- Stock Repair Cost : 4980 / 9550 / 15740 -> 4550 / 8720 / 14360 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 8187 / 15700 / 25876 -> 8190 / 15696 / 25848 SL
- Modification changes :
- Added NVD as Tier 3 modification
- Compressor :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.044 -> 0.049
- GE cost : 440 -> 470
- Fuselage repair :
- Added Category : Flight performance
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.008 -> 0.009
- GE cost : 440 -> 470
- Flares/Chaff :
- Added Category : Survivability
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.135 -> 0.148
- GE cost : 440 -> 470
- 30 mm belts : GE cost : 440 -> 470
- New boosters :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.013 -> 0.014
- RP cost : 18000 -> 14000
- GE cost : 500 -> 410
- Airframe :
- Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Fuselage repair
- Added Category : Flight performance
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.056 -> 0.061
- RP cost : 18000 -> 14000
- GE cost : 500 -> 410
- Type 25C :
- RP cost : 18000 -> 14000
- GE cost : 500 -> 410
- Matra 530F :
- Removed Previous modification (visually, not required) : Flares/Chaff
- RP cost : 18000 -> 14000
- GE cost : 500 -> 410
- Wings repair :
- Previous modification (visually, not required) : New boosters -> Airframe
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.064 -> 0.07
- GE cost : 440 -> 470
- G-suit :
- Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Flares/Chaff
- Tier : 3 -> 2
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.063 -> 0.068
- RP cost : 16000 -> 14000
- GE cost : 440 -> 410
- New 30 mm cannons/MGs :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.025 -> 0.027
- GE cost : 440 -> 470
- Matra JL-100R : GE cost : 440 -> 470
- Matra 530D : GE cost : 440 -> 470
- Engine :
- Previous modification (visually, not required) : Wings repair -> New boosters
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.095 -> 0.105
- GE cost : 720 -> 760
- Cover :
- Added Previous modification (visually, not required) : Wings repair
- Added Category : Flight performance
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.054 -> 0.059
- GE cost : 720 -> 760
- EFS :
- Previous modification (visually, not required) : New 30 mm cannons/MGs -> NVD
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.087 -> 0.095
- GE cost : 720 -> 760
- Matra R550 Magic 2 : GE cost : 720 -> 760
- Mirage 2000 D R1 :
- Stock Repair Cost : 5100 / 9790 / 16120 -> 4670 / 8950 / 14750 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 8190 / 15722 / 25888 -> 8195 / 15707 / 25886 SL
- Modification changes :
- Added NVD as Tier 3 modification
- Compressor :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.043 -> 0.047
- GE cost : 290 -> 310
- Fuselage repair :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.008 -> 0.009
- GE cost : 290 -> 310
- Flares/Chaff :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.132 -> 0.144
- GE cost : 290 -> 310
- Gun pod CC-630 : GE cost : 290 -> 310
- Type 25C : GE cost : 290 -> 310
- CLDP : GE cost : 290 -> 310
- AS30L : GE cost : 290 -> 310
- New boosters :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.013 -> 0.014
- GE cost : 580 -> 610
- Airframe :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.055 -> 0.06
- GE cost : 580 -> 610
- G-suit :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.061 -> 0.067
- GE cost : 580 -> 610
- GBU-12 : GE cost : 580 -> 610
- Wings repair :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.063 -> 0.068
- RP cost : 26000 -> 22000
- GE cost : 510 -> 450
- Cover :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.053 -> 0.058
- RP cost : 26000 -> 22000
- GE cost : 510 -> 450
- 30 mm belts :
- RP cost : 26000 -> 22000
- GE cost : 510 -> 450
- Matra JL-100R :
- RP cost : 26000 -> 22000
- GE cost : 510 -> 450
- GBU-16 :
- RP cost : 26000 -> 22000
- GE cost : 510 -> 450
- Engine :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.093 -> 0.102
- GE cost : 840 -> 880
- EFS :
- Previous modification (visually, not required) : G-suit -> NVD
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.085 -> 0.093
- GE cost : 840 -> 880
- BGL-1000 : GE cost : 840 -> 880
- GBU-24 : GE cost : 840 -> 880
- Tornado G.R. Mk. 1 :
- Number of modifications needed to unlock Tier 4 : 2 -> 3
- Modification changes :
- Added PGM 500 as Tier 3 modification
- Added PGM 2000 as Tier 4 modification
- Compressor : GE cost : 330 -> 370
- Fuselage repair : GE cost : 330 -> 370
- Flares/Chaff : GE cost : 330 -> 370
- 27 mm belts : GE cost : 330 -> 370
- 1000 LB : GE cost : 330 -> 370
- New boosters : GE cost : 470 -> 530
- Airframe : GE cost : 470 -> 530
- G-suit : GE cost : 470 -> 530
- GR.1B TIALD : GE cost : 470 -> 530
- Wings repair :
- RP cost : 33000 -> 26000
- GE cost : 510 -> 460
- Cover :
- RP cost : 33000 -> 26000
- GE cost : 510 -> 460
- New 27 mm cannons/MGs :
- RP cost : 33000 -> 26000
- GE cost : 510 -> 460
- Mk.13/18 :
- RP cost : 33000 -> 26000
- GE cost : 510 -> 460
- Engine :
- RP cost : 57000 -> 43000
- GE cost : 890 -> 750
- EFS :
- RP cost : 57000 -> 43000
- GE cost : 890 -> 750
- GBU-24 :
- RP cost : 57000 -> 43000
- GE cost : 890 -> 750
- BTR-80A :
- RP Cost : 46000 -> 95000 RP
- SL Cost : 170000 -> 270000 SL
- Crew Cost : 48000 -> 78000 SL
- Expert Crew Cost : 170000 -> 270000 SL
- Ace Crew Cost : 440000 / 630 -> 670000 RP / 1100 GE
- Stock Repair Cost : 1480 / 1520 / 2180 -> 3190 / 3280 / 4610 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 2326 / 2389 / 3426 -> 5014 / 5156 / 7246 SL
- SL multiplier : 0.71 / 0.84 / 1.1 -> 0.95 / 1.13 / 1.48
- RP multiplier : 1.6 -> 1.9
- Modification changes :
- Added 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm UOR6 HEF-T
- Added 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm APDS APDS / 30 mm UOR6 HEF-T (modification) as Tier 4 modification
- Parts :
- RP cost : 2000 -> 2100
- GE cost : 150 -> 170
- Tires :
- RP cost : 2000 -> 3300
- GE cost : 150 -> 170
- Horizontal Drive :
- RP cost : 2000 -> 3300
- GE cost : 150 -> 170
- 30 mm HE HEF-I / 30 mm HE HEF-I / 30 mm HE HEF-I / 30 mm APT AP-T (modification) :
- RP cost : 2000 -> 3300
- GE cost : 150 -> 170
- FPE :
- RP cost : 1500 -> 2000
- GE cost : 120 -> 160
- Suspension :
- RP cost : 1500 -> 3100
- GE cost : 120 -> 160
- Brake System :
- RP cost : 1500 -> 3100
- GE cost : 120 -> 160
- Adjustment of Fire :
- RP cost : 1500 -> 3100
- GE cost : 120 -> 160
- Airstrike :
- RP cost : 1500 -> 3100
- GE cost : 120 -> 160
- NVD :
- RP cost : 1500 -> 3100
- GE cost : 120 -> 160
- Filters :
- RP cost : 2500 -> 6900
- GE cost : 190 -> 360
- Elevation Mechanism :
- RP cost : 2500 -> 6900
- GE cost : 190 -> 360
- Crew Replenishment :
- RP cost : 2500 -> 6900
- GE cost : 190 -> 360
- 30 mm APT AP-T / 30 mm APT AP-T / 30 mm APT AP-T / 30 mm UOR6 HEF-T (modification) :
- Tier : 3 -> 1
- RP cost : 2500 -> 3300
- GE cost : 190 -> 170
- Transmission :
- RP cost : 2600 -> 4500
- GE cost : 200 -> 240
- Engine :
- RP cost : 2600 -> 4500
- GE cost : 200 -> 240
- Artillery Support :
- RP cost : 2600 -> 4500
- GE cost : 200 -> 240
- Improved optics :
- RP cost : 2600 -> 4500
- GE cost : 200 -> 240
- Smoke grenade :
- RP cost : 2600 -> 4500
- GE cost : 200 -> 240
- Talisman : 1400 -> 2000 GE
- Object 435 :
- Stock Repair Cost : 6280 / 7150 / 7120 -> 5510 / 6280 / 6250 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 7768 / 8844 / 8807 -> 7603 / 8666 / 8625 SL
- Modification changes :
- Added Artillery Support as Tier 4 modification
- Added NVD as Tier 4 modification
- Parts :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.009 -> 0.01
- GE cost : 360 -> 410
- Tracks :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.012 -> 0.014
- GE cost : 360 -> 410
- Horizontal Drive :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.012 -> 0.014
- GE cost : 360 -> 410
- FPE :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.009 -> 0.01
- GE cost : 230 -> 270
- Suspension :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.01 -> 0.011
- GE cost : 230 -> 270
- Brake System : Repair cost coefficient : 0.016 -> 0.018
- GE cost : 230 -> 270
- Adjustment of Fire :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.02 -> 0.022
- GE cost : 230 -> 270
- 3BM3 APFSDS (modification) : GE cost : 230 -> 270
- Filters :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.031 -> 0.034
- GE cost : 440 -> 500
- Elevation Mechanism :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.028 -> 0.032
- GE cost : 440 -> 500
- Crew Replenishment : GE cost : 440 -> 500
- Transmission :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.042 -> 0.047
- RP cost : 22000 -> 13000
- GE cost : 560 -> 380
- Engine :
- Repair cost coefficient : 0.048 -> 0.054
- RP cost : 22000 -> 13000
- GE cost : 560 -> 380
- 3BK4 HEATFS (modification) :
- RP cost : 22000 -> 13000
- GE cost : 560 -> 380
- Vijayanta :
- GE Cost : 8200 -> 8560 GE
- Expert Crew Cost : 510000 -> 680000 SL
- Ace Crew Cost : 1440000 / 1200 -> 1660000 RP / 1400 GE
- Repair Cost : 2420 / 2420 / 3390 -> 2810 / 2810 / 2950 SL
- SL multiplier : 1.84 / 3.0 / 3.3 -> 2.0 / 3.0 / 2.49
- RP multiplier : 1.96 -> 2.08
- Modification changes :
- Added Shell L35 HESH
- Added M456 HEATFS
- Added M456 HEATFS (modification) as Tier 3 modification
- Mark of distinction : RP cost : 130000 -> 140000
- Smoke grenade :
- Added Category : Protection
- Tier : 3 -> 4
- Backup : 160 -> 140 GE
- Type 87 RCV (P) :
- RP Cost : 54000 -> 110000 RP
- SL Cost : 180000 -> 310000 SL
- Crew Cost : 52000 -> 90000 SL
- Expert Crew Cost : 180000 -> 310000 SL
- Ace Crew Cost : 480000 / 710 -> 720000 RP / 1200 GE
- Stock Repair Cost : 2280 / 2760 / 3380 -> 4210 / 5020 / 6100 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 3584 / 4338 / 5313 -> 6618 / 7891 / 9589 SL
- SL multiplier : 1.01 / 1.5 / 1.49 -> 1.25 / 1.84 / 1.83
- RP multiplier : 1.66 -> 1.96
- Modification changes :
- Added DM63 APDS / DM63 APDS / DM63 APDS / DM51A1 HEFI-T
- Added DM63 APDS / DM63 APDS / DM63 APDS / DM51A1 HEFI-T (modification) as Tier 4 modification
- Parts :
- RP cost : 2400 -> 3200
- GE cost : 160 -> 220
- Tires :
- RP cost : 2400 -> 4900
- GE cost : 160 -> 220
- Horizontal Drive :
- RP cost : 2400 -> 4900
- GE cost : 160 -> 220
- DM43 HVAP-T / DM43 HVAP-T / DM43 HVAP-T / DM51A1 HEFI-T (modification) :
- RP cost : 2400 -> 4900
- GE cost : 160 -> 220
- FPE :
- RP cost : 1800 -> 2400
- GE cost : 120 -> 170
- Suspension :
- RP cost : 1800 -> 3700
- GE cost : 120 -> 170
- Brake System :
- RP cost : 1800 -> 3700
- GE cost : 120 -> 170
- Adjustment of Fire :
- RP cost : 1800 -> 3700
- GE cost : 120 -> 170
- Airstrike :
- RP cost : 1800 -> 3700
- GE cost : 120 -> 170
- NVD :
- RP cost : 1800 -> 3700
- GE cost : 120 -> 170
- Filters :
- RP cost : 3900 -> 8200
- GE cost : 260 -> 370
- Elevation Mechanism :
- RP cost : 3900 -> 8200
- GE cost : 260 -> 370
- Crew Replenishment :
- RP cost : 3900 -> 8200
- GE cost : 260 -> 370
- Transmission :
- RP cost : 3100 -> 5300
- GE cost : 210 -> 240
- Engine :
- RP cost : 3100 -> 5300
- GE cost : 210 -> 240
- Artillery Support :
- RP cost : 3100 -> 5300
- GE cost : 210 -> 240
- Improved optics :
- RP cost : 3100 -> 5300
- GE cost : 210 -> 240
- Smoke grenade :
- RP cost : 3100 -> 5300
- GE cost : 210 -> 240
- Talisman : 1500 -> 2100 GE
- Bravy :
- RP Cost : 220000 -> 120000 RP
- SL Cost : 610000 -> 360000 SL
- Crew Cost : 180000 -> 100000 SL
- Expert Crew Cost : 610000 -> 360000 SL
- Ace Crew Cost : 670000 / 1500 -> 620000 RP / 1400 GE
- Stock Repair Cost : 9960 / 15470 -> 9080 / 14230 SL
- Spaded Repair Cost : 12918 / 20064 -> 11776 / 18456 SL
- SL multiplier : 2.81 / 6.0 / 1.0 -> 2.72 / 6.0 / 1.0
- RP multiplier : 1.9 -> 1.84
- Modification changes :
- Tool Set :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Dry-Docking :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- 130 mm PB-42 SAP SAPCBC (modification) :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Anti-Air Armament Targeting :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Fire Protection System : RP cost : 11000 -> 9400
- Rudder Replacement : RP cost : 11000 -> 9400
- Smokescreen : RP cost : 11000 -> 9400
- Auxiliary Armament Targeting : RP cost : 11000 -> 9400
- Propeller Replacement :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Shrapnel Protection :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Ventilation :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Primary Armament Targeting :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Improved Rangefinder :
- RP cost : 10000 -> 8300
- GE cost : 280 -> 260
- Engine Maintenance :
- RP cost : 13000 -> 11000
- GE cost : 360 -> 350
- New Pumps :
- RP cost : 13000 -> 11000
- GE cost : 360 -> 350
- Ammo Wetting :
- RP cost : 13000 -> 11000
- GE cost : 360 -> 350
- 130 mm ZS-42R HE-VT HE-VT (modification) :
- RP cost : 13000 -> 11000
- GE cost : 360 -> 350
- Bomb mortar :
- RP cost : 13000 -> 11000
- GE cost : 360 -> 350
- Talisman : 2000 -> 1900 GE
Current Dev version : 2.26.0.40
Current Dev-Stable version : 2.25.1.135
Current Live version : 2.25.1.135
submitted by
SwannSwanchez to
Warthunder [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 13:17 superkilometerfilter How To Stop Odometer – A Guide
| https://preview.redd.it/i1g8wbv5es3b1.jpg?width=795&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fcd76e9ecbee2434a8af7b9ca21d3dee982dd639 How to stop odometer? – This is a frequently asked question among motorists around the world. Despite the various recommendations and offered technics, some of you are not still quite sure which way is better when it comes to interfering with your odometer. First of all, make sure that you have a legitimate reason for it. it may be some fault in functioning or you may just need to test the performance of your car. Needless to say, there are some people who use this for malicious purposes and search for the optimal way that allows them not to get caught in the crime. Of course, we do not encourage wrongdoers to break the law, we only want to tell you what is accepted practice in this case, what can be legitimate reasons that make you think about changing mileage-related data, and of course how to stop mileage on a car. Let’s get down to business, get ready and armed with the knowledge that will guide you through different situations you may come across. WHAT IS AN ODOMETER? It is a tool used for measuring the distance traveled by a vehicle. The device may be electronic, mechanical, or a combination of the two. It is placed on the dashboard near the speedometer, which on the other hand indicates the instantaneous speed of the automobile. If we look through history, we can learn that Roman engineers developed it around 15 BC. As for the modern prototype of it, Blaise Pascal invented it in the 17th century. Mechanical odometers include several cogs. Each cog represents a numerical digit. Distance is counted by tracking the rotations of tires. If you own a brand-new automobile, you can enjoy the fully electronic instrument cluster, accordingly, you have a digital odometer that is no longer cable-dependent. Now magnetic or optical sensors and electronic circuits do the job. Sensors count the rotations made by the toothed wheel. Signals from sensors are sent to the ECU. As a result, it calculates the traveled distance based on pulses. Hence, the result is printed on the board. Some people confuse it with the trip meter. Different from the above-mentioned tool. It can be reset at any time. Its main function is to count the particular distance between two points. It is extremely useful when you want to calculate miles per gallon, so it allows you to learn more about your fuel consumption more precisely. What are some problems related to it? You may ask what issues can we come across when we need a precise reading of mileage data. The most common reason is a broken odometer. Particularly it means that we get misleading information. The key solution in the case of mechanical one is easy to find and eradicate. There are many free tutorials on Youtube, that allow you to fix it yourself if you follow the instructions attentively. In the case of an electronic one, there may be several solutions. You may need to replace sensors, they are located near the back of the transmission. Another solution can be changing the gears, sometimes those are damaged and need replacement. According to the Electricity.com, more measures you can take are as followings: removing any dust particles and strains, checking the back of the dashboard connector, taking a closer look at fuses and checking the ECU wires, it is a high chance that those are faulty and make it impossible for meters to work properly. Why it is important? People are eager to know how to stop odometer and they have a reason for it. the point is that mileage plays a significant role in determining the value of vehicles. If you want to buy a used automobile, the first thing you may ask is the distance it has traveled throughout its life. The higher the number, the higher the chance of the necessity of high maintenance costs in the initial stage of owning the automobile. With the help of the odometer, you can see it with your own eyes, you don’t need to guess it. there comes the danger of accuracy of it. Some dishonest sellers manipulate this data to their advantage which means that they use some devices for malicious purposes. In the following paragraph, you can learn in detail what is it and how it affects the automotive industry. FIGHTING AGAINST ODOMETER FRAUD According to NHTSA, it is the disconnection, resetting or alteration of a vehicle’s odometer with the intent to change the number of miles indicated. Almost half a million buyers become victims of dishonest sellers. This crime costs $1 billion annually. How do they manage it? the answer is simple, they have tools that are available on any online store. The manufacturers of those tools escape the responsibility. The most common is the correction tool, which is meant to roll back the existing numbers. So, if you are interested in how to stop mileage on a car, those devices do not serve purposes. Additionally, they are easily detected, which means that it just changes data on the surface and it stays on other control units. So, before you decide to lie to someone, be careful you cause inconvenience and misunderstanding. Strengthening measures against crime is vital. So, government and individuals need to do their best to avoid it. As for laws, the federal government passed a law that requires a written disclosure of the mileage registered on an odometer to be provided on the title by the seller to the purchaser. An automobile that is 20 years or older is exempt from this requirement. As for individual effort, there are some tips and tricks that will help to protect yourself. Those are as followings: - Ask the seller to see the title and compare. Be sure that you take a closer look at it.
- Ask to see maintenance records and make your conclusion.
- Examine the general wear and tear of the target auto, especially the gas, brake and clutch pedals. Make sure that they are relevant to the numbers displayed.
- Request automobile history report to eliminate possible discrepancies.
As you can see, automotive crime is one of the big challenges today. However, If someone wants to change numbers on the odometer doesn’t automatically mean that he or she has a bad cause. There are various reasons why they need it, let’s take a closer look at them and find the best alternative that serves this purpose. HOW TO STOP ODOMETER You may have a bunch of legitimate reasons to correct your mileage data. Before we discuss how to do it flawlessly, let’s see what can be those reasons. For example, testing your automobile is the first you want to do after remapping and it’s normal that you do not want those unnecessary miles on the display. Other reasons are as followings: - You may spot inaccurate information after jump-starting
- Inaccuracy after dashboard damage
- Electrical fault
- After installing a new engine
- gauge failure
- after installing the used odometer
You may not think that it’s necessary but sometimes you need to disable your odometer. If you search for the phrase “how to stop odometer?”. Let’s look through what method you may come across. Firstly, you should know that you will need three steps for it. - Find the relevant fuse.
You may find different fuses for different purposes, for example, ignition, alarm or light. You need exactly the odometer fuse. - Remove the fuse.
Take a fuse removal tool and pull the fuse out. This should disable the odometer of your car. - The final step
Examine attentively. Make sure that every other fuse is properly installed. Take a short drive and see if it worked. All the above-mentioned sound good, but what if you are one of the admirers of high-tech solutions who would like to do all this effortlessly. If it is so, I have good news for you. I will tell you about the innovative module and answer your question – how to stop odometer? – once and forever. MILEAGE BLOCKER: THE BEST ALTERNATIVE OF ALL Mileage Blocker is an extraordinary module that can halt the mileage recording process from all control units. The tool is unique because of the advantages and benefits it offers. Additionally, it is used for more ethical purposes than its alternatives. Manufacturers created this module with premium-quality parts and it comes with mobile applications. This means that you don’t need to press the button to change it from mode to mode. It also includes easy installation instruction. If you decide to test your automobile efficiently, choose the quality product which doesn’t not only meet but exceeds your expectations. I will list the main benefits of this blocker, so you will be sure that it is a must-have device to purchase as soon as possible. Here is the list: - Altered mileage remains untraceable unconditionally. The information is not stored in any control unit and even with diagnostic testers no one is able to trace the mileage that was stopped while using the module.
- Doesn’t cause any flaws in the Can-Bus system. At SKF we devote a lot of time to research and development and make sure that you will not encounter such problems.
- You can turn it off and on while in motion. A key combination can be applied while your automobile is stationary or in motion and you can set the specific mode that you require during that specific time.
- Miles do not add up spontaneously after removing it. It is the problem for many counterfeits of this module, when you disconnect them, miles start adding up. If you purchase a Mileage blocker you never come across the same problem.
- It is a legal tool in most countries. However, in most cases, it is illegal to deceive potential buyers. Hence, you can install this module to test the performance of your vehicle in a controlled environment, but don’t use it for deceitful purposes.
So, if you still think about how to stop mileage on a car, do not hesitate. You can purchase the mileage stopper that will serve its purpose flawlessly. If you have any other questions you can check look through the support or contact the customer center. TAKEAWAY So, you get all the necessary information that will help you make a smart decision when it comes to your automobile. Do not forget to identify the legitimate reason for s stopping your odometer. After doing it, you can purchase the most reliable module in the world and enjoy its benefits. So, what are you thinking of ? I think you already know how to stop odometer. submitted by superkilometerfilter to u/superkilometerfilter [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 05:18 ndlacajunwiseguy 2020 (goldilocks) ridgeline with modifications
| Wanted to post the 2020 ridgeline (goldilocks...I like the old style, but has the new transmission) version that I bought new before all the pandemic weirdness https://preview.redd.it/qixi4kqf1q3b1.jpg?width=2560&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7cba60d921b75a67aebefa6198f2d7135dd6d5f https://preview.redd.it/rrlqrnqf1q3b1.jpg?width=2560&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3cbff889786fd604a0f2bd2e5556053ec1bcb58d https://preview.redd.it/gd8y6dqf1q3b1.jpg?width=2560&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8486f9efce244f1051933781e8351ad239a2e3b Modifications 1: 2 inch traxda lift. This is really the sweet spot, going over really runs up the price and 2 inches puts it on par with the taco/rangecolorado that run next to you 2: firestone destination at2 265/60-18 . No rub on full lock forward/reverse. Reason for getting was white lettering and the reviews were very positive on highway manners and wet performance. Wet performance is big for me since I am driving in the wet a good majority of the time. 2A: Tires plus lift is roughly 2 1/2 inches up. Wife: why did you make it so high? its hard to get into! me: muahahah 3: under body protection of mostly no low design front skid, front diff and catalytic protection (mostly to slow down/prevent someone going after my cat...its a thing in my area) 3a: front skid plate NEEDS replacement m6 bolts on the front that are automotive grade class 10.9. The stock bolts are meant to hold a tin shield and they will loosen and cause a bunch of creaking/groaning. If you attempt to tighten..they just break. 4: fog lights are diode dynamics SLF white, the 780 lumens is a great match and does not over power the main headlights. They are actually very useful in our dark and rainy nights here in Louisiana! 5: Brush guard, I think this was CarID...but not even sure you can buy anymore. It was roughly $350 at the time. Downside is the top tabs running under the hood...I had to take a stainless pad to them and really scour them and put on real black paint that could stand up to the rain. The stock coating rusted very quickly. 6: AEM drop in air filter. Clean/wash it every 3 months...works great. 7: CarID for the dash cover, I keep my vehicles for a long time and most end up with cracked dashes so wanted to prevent that on this ridgeline. Plus I could geek out and put my gamer handle embroided on it...kids/wife roll eyes... me dont care. 8: Steering wheel cover off amazon for $20, keeps the steering wheel in great shape and the aftermarket is really decent. 9: Full size spare on the back. This takes some amazon...you need a m8 140 to 160mm in length. I got the 160mm in length from England and its just a tad too long. I used rubber spacers on the stock insert. The stock tire holder requires a new hole, I screwed in my bolt...put some paint on the top and put the tire on with the stock holder. It showed me where the bolt hit the stock holder and voila...drilled my hole there. Its pretty much right on the edge..like 2mm off the edge if you need to guess. I put the bolt in and put a rubber spacer (again 160mm is a tad long, 150mm would be perfect) and just used a ratchet to screw it in. Is the view out of the back window great? No, but it beats the tire just lying in the back. I would love the tire to be side mounted on the bed behind the driver...but I don't know how to fabri-coble such a beast. 10: threw the engine cover away...I like to hear the engine. 11: Yes....I put a honda Trailsport badge on it. Its the version of the 2020 ridgeline that is really trail rated, but never made. haha...true unicorn 12: Put ceramic tint on the front windows. Its a bit less then the stock rear so nobody questions it and its a good look imho. I had it done professionally and it looks stock and has held up for 3 years with zero problems...and it really does block out the UV. They were also the same shop that installed the traxda lift, it was unique for them since they do a LOT of custom lifts...but never a ridgeline. What I like: 1:Payload is great, I've really pushed it a few times with 1700lbs...but it handled it like a champ every time. 2:Towing is fine, small trailer for my daughters band, a few boats, etc. I do need to install a brake controller on the off chance it hits 4k lbs or more. 3:Ride is great...way better than most every truck I've driven 4:Handling is vastly better in the corners, I can really whip this thing into a tight turn and not end up plowing or bouncing like mad....this is NOT something you want to do on a taco/rangecolorado. 5:More height on the sidewalls makes a real difference in handling pot holes...ride is not as jarring. We don't have great roads here in Louisiana. 6:I use the in bed speakers waaay more than I ever thought I would. 7:Love the transmission 8:making people regret not getting a ridgeline after they borrow my truck for the weekend 9: its pretty damn unique in town, I mean ridgeline is already pretty much "wheres waldo?" in a sea of ford/chevy/dodge/toyota...but this puts it into the unicorn status 10: oh yeah..cabin space is awesome! 11: trunk really keeps the cabin clean...just toss it in the trunk! What you need to accept: 1: acceleration takes a hit with more weight and bigger tires 2: gas mileage goes down. stock height/tires it was easy to get 25-29mpg, now its around 21. I drive like a monkey in town...17 3: Head unit is slooow. It doesn't crash/freeze...but it is slow. Basically android auto is your friend. 4: getting it aligned takes more than your usual shop. They have to work with lifted trucks...your normal shop has no clue on how to get this aligned. I took it to 2 shops, multiple times..fails. I then looked around for an alignment shop that knew wtf to do with modified trucks and it finally was done right. 5: eco mode in town is death...it takes so much off the acceleration that to turn into traffic is: ok..barely going..push more pedal...hmm still not moving...more pedal...damn they are right there! mash it to the floor! Sum up: I am totally that crescent wrench guy....I don't do anything that well, but can toss myself into most situations and make it work. This is my perfect truck in that it can do pretty much anything I ask it and my daughters are learning to drive on this as it has most of the modern safety features. submitted by ndlacajunwiseguy to hondaridgeline [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 04:19 Tyman989 2013 Chevy Cupholder insert
2023.06.03 04:17 Tyman989 2013 Chevy Cupholder insert
2023.06.03 04:07 Tyman989 2013 Chevy Cupholder insert
| I was wondering if anyone makes/3D prints an insert for 2013 chevy Silverado or suburban with a cupholder large enough to fit a rambler 36oz. I would buy one of those cup extensions for $20 but those make the bottle even taller and do not look very stable. If nobody does make one who could I commission to make it for me? submitted by Tyman989 to YetiCoolers [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 01:29 zpnrg1979 Converting bulldozer to electric
Hi there,
I have a 1940's D2 that puts out about 40hp. Looking to replace it with an electric motor and Li-ion batteries.
On a bit of a shoestring budget at the moment so may have to do something to get it running and then look at the battery power later on (start small as batteries are expensive as hell, not to mention the motor(s) etc.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? I'm thinking one motor that will go right into the transmission and drive it that way (dry clutch) vs putting two motors in the axel and driving it that way even though that is likely much more efficient.
TractorData.com has specs and 3 historical comprehensive performance tests on the machine if anyone is interested in seeing the power I'm looking to replace.
Currently there are two hydraulic pistons driving the blade and want to replace that pump that runs off of the pto with either an electric hydraulic pump or electroic actuators vs. pistons.
I would really appreciate insight into motors, suppliers, and reasoning along with battery thoughts, suppliers or ideas on how to obtain, and reasoning. I'm in Ontario, Canada. While LiFePO4 looks like the current selection, I see many more tech's coming down the pipe for greater kw/h per kg along with charging time reduction along with cost reduction. I can't spend 10,000 on batteries for now, but want to have the right motor and maybe enough battery life to power it for an hour or 30 mins for now just as a test. More batteries can come later. Also looking for thoughts on motor controller and various things I'll need to identify amount of power left, rpm/tach, amp, blah blah along with charger thoughts.
Not looking to re-invent the wheel so thought I would see if there are any experts out there looking to give me their thoughts over a cup of coffee so I'm not spending weeks doing research.
Also, any thoughts on who to approach as sponsors or how to raise some funds for parts?
S
submitted by
zpnrg1979 to
heavyequipment [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 01:28 zpnrg1979 Converting a bulldozer to electric
Hi there,
I have a 1940's D2 that puts out about 40hp. Looking to replace it with an electric motor and Li-ion batteries.
On a bit of a shoestring budget at the moment so may have to do something to get it running and then look at the battery power later on (start small as batteries are expensive as hell, not to mention the motor(s) etc.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? I'm thinking one motor that will go right into the transmission and drive it that way (dry clutch) vs putting two motors in the axel and driving it that way even though that is likely much more efficient.
TractorData.com has specs and 3 historical comprehensive performance tests on the machine if anyone is interested in seeing the power I'm looking to replace.
Currently there are two hydraulic pistons driving the blade and want to replace that pump that runs off of the pto with either an electric hydraulic pump or electroic actuators vs. pistons.
I would really appreciate insight into motors, suppliers, and reasoning along with battery thoughts, suppliers or ideas on how to obtain, and reasoning. I'm in Ontario, Canada. While LiFePO4 looks like the current selection, I see many more tech's coming down the pipe for greater kw/h per kg along with charging time reduction along with cost reduction. I can't spend 10,000 on batteries for now, but want to have the right motor and maybe enough battery life to power it for an hour or 30 mins for now just as a test. More batteries can come later. Also looking for thoughts on motor controller and various things I'll need to identify amount of power left, rpm/tach, amp, blah blah along with charger thoughts.
Not looking to re-invent the wheel so thought I would see if there are any experts out there looking to give me their thoughts over a cup of coffee so I'm not spending weeks doing research.
Also, any thoughts on who to approach as sponsors or how to raise some funds for parts?
S
submitted by
zpnrg1979 to
electricvehicles [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 22:28 my_username_bitch '99 Suburban Transmission slip; no tach/speedo
Hey all, thanks for having me, having an issue with our '99 Suburban.
History Highlights: - 2nd owner - Meticulously maintained - New Transmission from Factory at 110k in 2016 - Both Catalytic converters stolen last September ('22) - Drove home after, loud but no other issues, parked and has sat due to quotes on exhaust repair costs - Finally have the cash for repair so drained fuel, flushed lines, fresh gas, checked oil, etc, all systems go - Idle sounds perfect but now no tach - No check engine light - Once warm checked transmission fluid and coolant, both good - Still loud as a herd of hungry goats
Now the issue: Barely moves in Drive, will not shift or even climb driveway, try 3rd, won't climb either, but drives just fine in 1st and 2nd. At first seems obviously a transmission issue to me. But that Tach not working is in my head. I feel like the two happening at the exact same start means its maybe related to a sensor, servo, possibly even computer and thats why I'm here. Does anyone have any experience with this and if so, could you direct me to a good starting place for eliminating the issue? This transmission has less than 20k on it, this vehicle was only used for long trips maybe 6 times a year. Its been a great vehicle but not putting another transmission in it, just too expensive when I still need to get the Catalytic converters replaced.
Thank you all so much for reading and for any assistance!
submitted by
my_username_bitch to
suburban [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 21:15 dogsRgr8too 2012 Nissan versa possible transmission issue
My 2012 Nissan versa cvt transmission has around 90,000 miles, and it started jerking with acceleration. A few minutes later, the check engine light came on.
Transmission code when checked.
With the car market, it's not the best time to replace; but if it needs the transmission replaced, how many additional miles/years do you typically get from the vehicle?
No other known issues.
We are trying to determine which route to take if it is the $4,000 repair. Even getting 4 more years from it would seem to make it worth replacing with the cost of vehicles currently.
Thank you for sharing any input or experience.
1.6L engine since requested by automod
submitted by
dogsRgr8too to
AskMechanics [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 20:53 yadayadadatata Does anyone have any advice on what to do with a 2013 RAV4 that shudders/jerks between 2nd and 3rd gear?
I’m the second owner and have owned the vehicle since 2020. All service and maintenance has been done at the dealership and its got 137, 000km on it.
There is a lag when accelerating between 2nd and 3rd after which it jerks. No codes or check engine lights on. The dealership can’t identify the exact problem, but have suggested I completely replace the transmission.
Has anyone else experienced this issue and found a fix that won’t cost an arm and a leg? Is it worth replacing the transmission considering its age and mileage?
I can likely afford to replace the transmission if that’s what it is, but my concern is that if there’s another big fix needed in the next year I won’t be able to afford even a beater. Any advice would be appreciated.
submitted by
yadayadadatata to
rav4club [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 20:48 Working_Concern2001 Alternator hybrid electric motor
2023.06.02 20:45 Working_Concern2001 Alternator hybrid electric motor
2023.06.02 20:33 WideMix8098 Don’t buy a used car in Lawrence, especially from Express Motorsports.
Let me preface by saying yes I am aware that Lawrence is not by any means the best place to buy a used car. However, it was my only choice at the time. I was desperate and forced to get whatever I could. I tried to pick the least sketchy and trustworthy used car dealership to do business with. Don’t buy from these people. Don’t even think about it. I bought a 2008 Honda CRV for 8,000 from them in January, and by March the dashboard lit up with engine codes. The engine was completely dead by April, about 90 days after I bought the car. After basically threatening to sue them, they reluctantly agreed to trade for a car of much less value. I eventually decided against trading in fear of getting more problems from them. I sold the car to get not even half of my money back. There is no explanation for dropping a valve randomly after doing nothing but if anything, overly maintaining this car. This was the first car I owned in 2 years and it took a long time to save up this money, doing research and careful planning for nothing and a bad attitude when I came to them with my dead car they sold me. I would stay clear of this place at all costs. This is a warning.
Here is the copy of the timeline I sent to my lawyer:
Hi Kevin,
I bought an 08 Honda Crv from Eduardo Contreras at Express Motorsports Dealership in Lawrence, Massachusetts. I’ve done nothing but try to maintain the vehicle and the engine was dead within 2 months of purchasing the car.
Here is a timeline of events.
Jan 10 2023 at 4:30pm Traveled to Lawrence, Massachusetts to look at the vehicle which is a 2008 Honda Crv ex sport utility. Was told the “total loss” on the CarFax was a mistake the insurance company made with only minor front end damage. Was told the title was always clean. After reviewing the CarFax further it appears it had both a salvage and rebuilt title issued then later corrected in “error” then a clean title was issued. Put a $500 deposit down on the vehicle. At the time the dealership had no negative reviews. However on or around the time I bought my vehicle they received many negative reviews similar to mine.
January 12 2023
Bought my insurance policy for the vehicle.
January 17 2023
Was issued a temporary license plate to transport the vehicle from the dealership to my residence.
January 18 2023
Purchased the vehicle for 8,000. Was told the purchasing contract included a 30 day warranty for the entire vehicle. Purchaser contract had no disclosure of being subject to recalls. Tmps light was only light on the dash.
January 20 2023
Registered the vehicle.
February 9th 2023
Vehicle passed state inspection.
Between February 9th and March 15th (can get exact date)
A letter was issued describing multiple airbag recalls dating back to 2016.
March 24 2023
Engine started shifting gears harder. No engine light. Oil life at 60%. Last oil change was preformed 121,500 miles. At 123,800 I preformed an oil change using the same oil that was written on the last oils change sticker. The oil life never increased.
March 26 The airbag light, check engine light, and hazardous conditions light turned on and never turned off. Developed a p303 engine code. Mechanical problems including engine misfire on cylinder 3 and a hard start. Mechanical issues never improved even after a tune up and attempting to fix all possible causes. List of what I spent to try and fix with receipts.
Spark plugs Coil packs Battery Fuel injector Tools Sea foam Oil Mass airflow cleaner Throttle body cleaner
April 3rd
Took vehicle to Honda dealership to replace airbags and have misfire diagnosed. Honda dealership declared engine failure with a dropped valve. Was quoted 3,000 to fix.
Communicated with Eddie the mechanical issues and requested compensation for selling me a dead engine. I asked questions regarding my warranty and discovered I was never given an official warranty in writing. Eddie said “ we have you a 30 day warranty on the engine and transmission only. It is in the purchase contract.” However upon inspection it was not. Asked him about the vehicle being subject to recalls and he denied that it was. This is when I discovered the odd verbiage on the CarFax about a rebuilt title issued in error after an insurance company deemed the car a total loss. Eddie agreed to give me a car of lesser value, then listed said car. Eddie insisted on communicating through voice notes and over the phone and not through text. I was not able to communicate over the phone at that time.
Arranged to trade cars on May 11th, however on Tuesday April 11, my engine started smoking and it is not safe the transport the vehicle back to Massachusetts. Also after reading a negative review about someone in my similar situation trading in a car to him, then later that car wasn’t suitable as well, I decided not to trade in. Id rather have my money back so I can purchase a safe, reliable vehicle than gamble with doing business with him again and trusting his vehicles.
submitted by
WideMix8098 to
massachusetts [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 17:58 shipcarhawaiiCoastal History of Automobile Transportation
If you are interested in auto shipping and are shopping around for quotes, learning a little bit of its history might come in handy. This will help you be as informed as possible and you will walk away with some interesting knowledge of the transportation industry that dates back even to the 1500s!
First let’s take a look at the parent of the industry: the invention of the car.
The Invention of Automobiles and Transportation Devices:
The earliest automobile on record is perhaps the Fardier, a steam powered vehicle that was built in 1771 by Nicholas Cugnot for the French Minister of war. However, the challenge in operating it coupled with its slow speed of only 2.3 mph, made the vehicle fail to go into production. But let’s give credit where credit is due, seeming as this got the wheels turning for another French inventor, Amedee Bollee. Over a whole century later, in 1873, Amedee Bollee built an upgraded 12 passenger steam car. However, this version also proved impractical because steam engines simply weren’t able to keep up with the speeds of the common horse and buggy.
By the early 1900s the Germans and the Americans had their chance to shine with the invention of the gasoline powered automobile. The Germans built the first gasoline powered cars, or motor cars, with great ingenuity. They (the vehicles) had a two cylinder gas engine, a four speed transmission, and could travel up to 10 mph. But it was the Americans that are credited with the first line of cars to be mass produced. The curved Dash Oldsmobile in 1901, built by Ransom Olds; and the first official assembly line mass produced vehicle, the Model T built by Henry Ford in 1908.
The Development to Modern Day Auto Shipping:
By the 1930s, mass production of vehicles had reached the millions. It was around this time that the transportation industry really gained popularity. In the early days, ships, trucks, planes, and railways were used to transport goods such as food, fuel, and clothing. With vehicles being mass produced and in high demand, it wasn’t long before they were also added to the list. Auto Dealers looking to purchase vehicles found that rail shipping was inefficient; taking too long and costing too much. This was the birth of the auto shipping industry.
The ‘labor pains’ were indeed great when auto dealers were often forced to find other more efficient methods of transporting vehicles. Earlier in the century semi-trucks were being used with varying degrees of success but nothing that proved successful long term until the early 1960s. During the 40s and 50s railroads were using boxcars to transport as many vehicles as possible. Over half a century of trial and error later, German engineers designed the first auto carrier rack that could carry up to ten vehicles at a time. This was later improved on by Canadian engineers who designed enclosed bi-level carriers, similar to the traditional boxcars but with two floors and closed at both ends. Railway methods are still used to this day.
The auto shipping industry really took off in the 1980s and has been steadily growing for the past several decades; and ever since then railway methods were largely replaced in favor of big trucks and car trailers. However, Sea and Air freight are still the most popular modes used for any overseas auto shipping.
Modern Day Auto Shipping:
Modern day shipping uses the latest transit technology, offering door to door transport, insurance coverage, custom made service, hassle free shipping, as well as new features that allow the car to be located in route.
Cutting edge technology includes options between open vs. enclosed auto carriers, for when weather and other external factors are to be considered. This ties in to custom services that allow you to ship different types of vehicles, including luxury cars, with drivers having expert experience in handling them. For added safety, companies offer different insurance policies to choose from. Choosing the right one depends on your personal situation, budget, and vehicle type. Hassle free shipping means you no longer have to take care of the delivery details on your own. Companies carry much of the responsibility for safe transportation of your vehicle, even offering before, after, and during transit inspections. In addition, finding a shipping company is also easier than it used to be. Most companies can be found online and offer quotes right off their websites. This allows you to do background research and shop around for the best prices before you make your final decision.
Indeed much has changed since the early years of the auto shipping industry. And it doesn’t hurt to have a bit of extra knowledge on its history while you do your research. The auto shipping industry continues to grow, and like technology, is always evolving.
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2023.06.02 17:18 InevitableFox9583 Chevy Captiva started just fine now 30 minutes later nothing.
I have a 2014 Chevy Captiva. The engine was just replaced last year. My car won't start. I turn the key and can hear one click and then nothing. The lights on the dash all come on, the radio works, the back up sensor turns on when put into reverse, I can roll the windows up and down. It just won't turn over. It shows my battery is at 11.8 volts. Is the battery just dying or could it be something else
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2023.06.02 17:16 InevitableFox9583 Car won't start
I have a 2014 Chevy Captiva. The engine was just replaced last year. My car won't start. I turn the key and can hear one click and then silence. The lights on the dash all come on, the radio works, the back up sensor turns on when put into reverse, I can roll the windows up and down. It just won't turn over. It shows my battery is at 11.8 volts. Is the battery just dying or could it be something else
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2023.06.02 17:10 r3dsca Obscure subreddit posting - The Branding Issue of Democrats from the 90s to Now
This was posted in the
AngryObservation subreddit (that I stumbled on two seconds ago)
Essay posted by
u/dcmetro7 https://www.reddit.com/usedcmetro7/ Democrats have a branding problem : AngryObservation (reddit.com) Democrats have a branding problem
😴 Long Observation 😴 I was inspired by
u/Randomuser1520 's post about the Democratic Party's seemingly weak bench of future potential presidential nominees.
A lot of the problems trace back to 2016, but I'd argue the Democrats' branding woes go back even further. Think all the way back to the last time the Democrats had a consistently strong electoral record as a party -- the 90s, where the only truly bad year for Ds was 1994. Bill Clinton had successfully rebranded the party under the 'Third Way' label that Dems at any level could embrace and benefit from, and he had a clear successor in Al Gore. But Gore loses narrowly in 2000, and the problems for the Dems' brand begin.
'Yes We Can'
After 9/11, the electorate supports Bush and they support war. Dems' brand takes a hit and they lose the 2002 midterms. In 2004, John Kerry is successfully painted as an out-of-touch Ivy League liberal, disengaged from 'real America.' Dems lose and their brand suffers further.
But by the end of Bush's term, most Americans are disillusioned with Dubyaism. They wanted change, and one man promises to lead them to it with posters that proclaim 'HOPE' and cries of 'Yes We Can,' heralding in a new age of politics. Barack Obama and the Democrats are swept into a trifecta in Washington.
And we certainly got a new age of politics. When Obama was inaugurated, pundits speculated about the 'emerging Democratic majority', and how the GOP may literally go extinct in ten years. By the end of Obama's second term, those same pundits are surveying the absolutely decimated state of the Democratic party at all levels of power. Dems had lost the Senate, the House, most governorships, and most state legislatures. Control of the state legislatures makes the GOP's hold on the House even stronger. Control of the Senate effectively leads to control of the Supreme Court.
While Obama certainly can't be blamed for everything the GOP threw at him, I feel like it's safe to say
his rebranding of the Democratic party failed in the long run. The 'Party of Hope' was sunk into the quagmire of a slow economic recovery, some of the most cynical politicking ever, and some of the most dysfunctional White House-Congress relationships in the history of the country. Obama's signature healthcare legislation would languish in the 30s approval-wise until after he left office. By 2015, no one was talking about the Democrats as the Party of Hope anymore. Even the guy who designed the original 'Hope' poster said he was frustrated by the lack of progress under the Obama admin. I'd argue that the Republicans were responsible for the clear majority of this dysfunction, but if their goal was to muddy the waters between the parties, they succeeded. And with the Tea Party, they were better at rebranding themselves even when they were in the opposition.
And none of this was helped by the face that Obama seemed extremely reluctant, even uninterested, in stepping into the role of party leader. Congressional Democrats were frustrated at the way he kept his distance from them, making it hard to solidify the policy goals they'd implemented in his first term. This article (
https://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/19/us/aloof-obama-is-frustrating-his-own-party.html) sums it up well, with this prescient quote sticking out:
In interviews, nearly two dozen Democratic lawmakers and senior congressional aides suggested that Mr. Obama’s approach has left him with few loyalists to effectively manage the issues erupting abroad and at home and could imperil his efforts to leave a legacy in his final stretch in office.
And sure enough, Obama's legacy was in peril before he even left office.
'Stronger Together'
In 2016, Democrats didn't plan for a primary, they planned for a coronation. Hillary Clinton had been locking up all the support she could get from the Democratic establishment while Obama was serving his second term. Biden would seem like the clear establishment successor, but by the time he was able to turn his attention from VP duties to the primary he realized Hillary had completely boxed him out. She had already corralled all the big donors, operatives, and endorsements into her corner, and Joe was checkmated before he even sat down to the board. Thus, he turned down the opportunity, likely burying his long-nurtured presidential ambitions.
But then the coronation gets bumpy. Sanders challenges her from the outside, and immediately begins putting her on the spot as to why she's running. In other words, what does she envision for the Democratic brand? Hillary herself doesn't know. Is it a third term of Bill (whose star was starting to fade among everyone whose name doesn't rhyme with Shames Scarville), a third term of Obama (whose Hope posters have since become landfill), or an all-new thing?
To Hillary's credit, she couldn't portray herself as a total break from the past, both because she had been was strongly anchored to the national political landscape for the last thirty years, and because she could hardly attack Obama's record too harshly. In the end, she also struggled to brand both herself and the party. Consider the slogans most associated with her campaign; 'Forward Together' and 'Stronger Together' sound like the slogans of a centrist third party with no concrete policy ideas. They just attempted to project a feeling of unity onto a people who were united only, if the candidacies of Sanders and Trump meant anything, in the feeling that 'establishment' politicians like HRC had failed. And, of course, 'I'm with Her' was barely a rebrand at all, simply associating the party with its uncharismatic yet seemingly unstoppable frontrunner.
In the meantime, Trump had done the opposite, rebranding himself and the GOP as the party of 'America First populism.' What that meant exactly in terms of policy seemed to change from day to day But as a brand, as a forceful statement of intent, it worked, especially when contrasted with a seemingly rudderless HRC campaign that failed to answer the age-old question: 'Why are you running for president?'
'For the People'
After the 2016 fiasco, the Democrats were decimated and leaderless. Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid had passed his leadership position to Chuck Schumer and passed on soon after Trump took office. Tim Ryan led a mutiny against Nancy Pelosi, blaming her in part for the party's plunge from ascendance to irrelevance in the House. Hillary Clinton disappeared into the woods of Chappaqua. Obama started making a docu-series for Netflix. Joe Biden entered semi-retirement and wrote a book.
But in all of this, they found something they had been lacking. A brand.
Not the one they would have preferred, but one that would work nonetheless for winning elections. House Dems would embrace the (once-again) vague slogan of 'For the People' ahead of the 2018 midterms, but the aim was clear. The Democrats were now the Opposition; the Anti-Trump party.
Trump's approval rating was not just low, but incredibly sticky. People tended to have very firm opinions on him, and so his approval rating barely escaped the 35-45% range, with him almost hitting 50% before the pandemic hit. Thus, running on opposition to Trump would be fine electorally. In 2018, the Democrats had a blue wave year based mostly on opposition to Trump, retaking the house. Ironically, a big policy motivator for voters was backlash against the GOP's effort to repeal and replace Obamacare -- a promise that had driven Republican electoral gains since the bill was passed into law. Republican branding and messaging had been so successful that, for the better part of the decade, people trusted them to 'fix' the ACA until the very last minute before the replacement was signed.
'Battle for the Soul of the Nation'
But the problem remained for 2020 -- who would lead them? This was a difficult decision even before the pandemic. And Democratic primary voters were treated to a veritable buffet on angles on how to rebrand the party to beat Trump.
Should the party embrace democratic socialism under Sanders, or heavy consumer advocacy under Warren? Should it embrace a young, charismatic up-and-comer like Harris, Buttigieg, or O'Rourke or someone just as 'establishment' as Hillary, like Michael Bloomberg? Old-school liberalism with the Klob? Whatever Andrew Yang was doing?
But as the polls drew near, the Democrats seemed to conclude that beating Trump was simply more important than charting a new course for the party. If they could get elected or rebrand, they'd choose the former. And so all the other more moderate candidates dropped out to consolidate the vote around Biden, as the safe, expected pick who could stay the course. Biden and his surrogates began adopting the slogan 'Battle for the Soul of the Nation,' an epic and apocalyptic phrase that is still fundamentally reactive in tone, implying that the biggest motivator to vote for Democrats that fall was not to pass any specific agenda, but to put a stop to the GOP's plans.
Biden wouldn't
govern in this way, but he would campaign this way -- as the normal, capable candidate who could lead the country's post-covid recovery in opposition to Trump's perceived incompetence. Biden won, but Democrats didn't get nearly the boost they wanted from covid, and House candidates underperformed Biden nationally, leading to a surprising loss of seats in the House. And after the effort to throw out the election failed, Trump left office with severely damaged standing with independents. The anti-Trump brand had delivered Dems a trifecta; now it was time to use it; hopefully to establish a new brand for a new decade.
'Building Back Better'
Upon taking office, Biden and the Dems lay out their agenda; the 'Build Back Better' plan, which centers on a three-pronged approach; a pandemic relief bill, an infrastructure bill, and a social policy bill. Passing such plans will involve all 50 Senate D's on board in some cases, and a bipartisan filibuster-proof majority of 60 senators in other cases.
People laugh, think back to 2010, and begin arguing whether a prediction that the GOP will control 55 Senate seats by 2023 is too conservative. Nancy Pelosi is trying to manage a mere five-seat majority in the house. Mitch McConnell, who once feasted on the Democrats' lost hopes the way a hungry turtle devours a plate of juicy strawberries, still held enough sway in the Senate to hold up any significant policy not related to budget reconciliation. Even then, Schumer must wrangle mavericks like Joe Manchin and Kyrsten Sinema. Dramatic divisions still rip across the fabric of American society. But then, something truly strange happens.
The 117th Congress ends up being one of the most productive sessions ever.
Whether or not you think any or all of the 117th's acts were good policy, it's undeniable that this was an unusually politically efficient session, especially considering the last decade of hardball politics. Bipartisan majorities drive the infrastructure act, a gun control act, a tech-manufacturing promotion act, and even a somewhat-legalization of same-sex marriage nationwide. Plus, Schumer and Pelosi navigate their tiny majorities toward passing partisan priorities, like the pandemic relief act and the scaled-down Build Back Better social policy bill, rebranded as the Inflation Reduction Act or IRA. McConnell drops his trademark stonewalling and collaborates with Biden on the bipartisan bills, and 'Yea' votes roll in even from deep red states -- Republican senators from Mississippi, West Virginia, and North Dakota get these bills over the line. Bipartisanship returns to Congress in fleeting glances -- something that I feel confident in arguing
absolutely no one expected Biden or the Dem leaders to be able to do.
Of course, no one has forgotten 2010, and 2022 looks to be another rough year. Inflation soars, and Biden's approval rating drops. Dems brace for impact. The Dobbs ruling happens, but polls repeatedly suggest that the economy is the top issue on voters' minds, and they don't like Biden's handling of it.
But while these things are true, they ignore a crucial factor -- the GOP is embroiled in an identity crisis of its own. The leader of the party is claiming to be the legitimate president of the United States, which is a bit of a hard issue to ignore. Trump loyalists beat out 'establishment' Republicans in the primaries, and bring their hard promotion of the MAGA brand to the general elections. And they lose.
I think it's fair to say that the GOP lost most of the key races of the 2022 midterms, rather than Democrats winning them. Swing state Republican parties chose candidates who adhered so closely to a brand so toxic that independents still chose the Democrats, even in some cases where they were dissatisfied with the party. Republicans who have managed to establish a brand for themselves -- DeSantis, Kemp, and DeWine among them -- soar, while the Trumpiest candidates fall flat. McConnell remains in the minority, and McCarthy becomes the head of a very, very dysfunctional family.
Will Brandon's Rebrand Stand?
So, coming off an unusually strong midterm, where does the party go in 2024? Probably, as
u/Randomuser1520 said, back to Biden. When your party wins one of the most fiercely contested elections in American history, has a productive legislative session, and then massively overperforms in the midterm, you don't usually change horses regardless of what approval polling says. If Biden were just 10 years younger and the health concerns were off the table, there would be no question in anyone's mind who to nominate.
The establishment and progressive wings of the party seem to be behind him if he runs, meaning challenges will only come from real outsiders like Marianne Williamson and Robert Kennedy Jr. The DNC will probably work to make those challenges as unviable as possible.
2024 is tricky to predict. Trump is favored on the Republican side, and as said before, his brand is so toxic that Biden can probably glide to reelection barring any massive economic downturns or serious health problems. I won't get too much into 2024, because it seems pretty clearly on the path to becoming another referendum on the GOP's brand, not the Democrats'. Biden's second term (and the rest of his first term) may be defined as much by implementation of the legislation they passed during the 117th as much as by new legislation, if not more.
So the question becomes this -- where does the party go in 2028? Or, in other words, what will Democrats take away from the Biden presidency, and how will Biden shape the party's brand going forward? Who they choose to lead the party next will tell, and Biden's presidency may already be laying out a blueprint.
In his 1996 State of the Union address, Bill Clinton declared 'the era of big government is over,' essentially conceding that Reagan and his vision of a small role for the federal government in domestic affairs had won out for the time, and that Democrats would need to work within that political reality in order to win elections. Obama's efforts to change that status quo resulted in an avalanche of backlash from Tea Partiers, self-proclaimed champions of fiscal conservatism. Hillary Clinton's failed campaign strategy arguably rested more on that understanding of the political climate than anything else, causing her to miss a series of growing frustrations with Reaganism at times channelled by Sanders and, at times, Trump -- at decimation of the manufacturing sector, at the growing gap between rich and poor, at China's seemingly unstoppable three-decade rise at the expense of the U.S.
Biden's approach to American industry and government is a strong repudiation of Reaganism, based around the idea that it is the government's job to fortify and guide the economy in ways that are necessary where the free market has little incentive to. It argues that the issues of infrastructural decay, manufacturing decline, and the growing need for green energy in the face of climate change will only be solved if the government directs the power of the private sector towards those goals at great upfront cost. And free trade, long held as the unassailable source of America's prosperity, must now only be employed in moderation -- if the U.S. has to arguably break international law to lure foreign investment into the U.S. through generous subsidies, it will be worth it, even if it earns the fury of our economic partners. This may be the groundwork of Bidenism.
These plans may fail. The money may be wasted by incompetent or corrupt administrators and the American people may become even more jaded at the thought of big government. But movement within the GOP may suggest a broader shift in the American mind towards this kind of economic interventionism is already in progress. Promising to reverse the decline of manufacturing through tariffs and other measures would have been political anathema twenty years ago, but it has become a core Republican plank. Florida Republicans' punitive measures towards Disney and the GOP's growing support for government action against Big Tech companies suggests openness towards not just using state power to guide the economy, but also to reshape the social landscape by manipulating the private sector. It may well be that the era of small government is over.
I've sorted some potential 'brands' and some of the people who might be nominated in 2028 / become party standard-bearers should the Democrats go in that direction. These lists aren't exhaustive; I'm just trying to establish a general vibe.
The 'Biden Blueprint': Kamala Harris, Pete Buttigieg, Gina Raimondo
These are members of the Biden admin who have been given great power (and great piles of money) to enact the legislation of the 117th. If American sentiment towards big government changes as quickly as I think it could, a Cabinet secretary could have a decent shot in 2028. Harris would be the natural successor as the VP, but Transportation Sec Buttigieg and Commerce Sec Raimondo, who were empowered to implement much of the Infrastructure Act and the CHIPS Act respectively, could become standard-bearers for this new vision of technocratic governance if they administer these programs well (and in a way that makes headlines). If Energy Sec Granholm were a natural-born citizen, she would definitely fit here as well, considering how much power the IRA gave her department.
The 'New New Deal': Amy Klobuchar, Catherine Cortez Masto, Mark Kelly, Tammy Duckworth, Raphael Warnock
Liberal senators who are capable of working across the aisle to achieve compromise could be a strong bet if Democrats want to recreate the success of the 117th Congress in the future. There's always an argument that effective legislators won't necessarily make for effective executives, but these choices would help with Democrats' goal of rebranding the Democratic party as the party you vote for if you want Washington to function properly and anticipate constituents' needs. Such a ticket could brand itself as the path to bipartisan yet assertive solutions on familiar and emerging issues like immigration reform, federal protection for abortion, the housing shortage, and the drug crisis.
The 'Bulwark': Roy Cooper, Laura Kelly, Andy Beshear
I'll admit that when I began writing this post, I had a more favorable opinion of the above three governors and politicians like them as presidential nominees and the potential 'future of the party.' I no longer feel as strongly about them, however, because I don't believe they do enough to change the brand of the Democrats and the political environment as a whole. These governors are best known for winning races in red states; for holding the line against the most conservative policies while finding areas of compromise, especially on kitchen-table issues.
But this brand of Democrat is fundamentally reactive, even defensive -- it assumes that most of the job will be obstructing right-wing legislation from a red legislature. In other words, it is a kind of strategy you use when you're trying to hold ground, not gain it. It works well when your
opponent's brand is toxic (as the GOP's has been since 2016), but this I suspect this brand of 'competent normality' will struggle if the opposition ceases to actively repel voters. If Trump and his acolytes continue to hold a strong grip on the party through 2024 and beyond, this brand may not be a bad bet short-term, but long-term Democrats want to be the ones
establishing the rules of the game, not just beating your opponent at theirs. That's what a successful political brand does. While Dems in similar situation should definitely look to these governors for guidance in running their campaigns (and hopefully, their administrations), I would caution at this point against basing the national party's brand on their model.
I think somewhere between these three groups lies a successful path forward for the Democrats that towards becoming the dominant party in U.S. politics at the federal level. There are some other interesting currents in the party; like how Democratic governors like Whitmer, Evers, and Walz have rebuilt D strength the Midwest after a rough 2010s, and how Western Dems like Jared Polis, Mary Peltola, and Marie Gluesenkamp Perez have found unexpected electoral stength by embracing a form of libertarianism. However, these currents may be regional, and Democrats shouldn't necessarily try to nationalize every idea that works in one part of the country. Creating different regional 'flavors' of Democrat would be necessary to keep the party relevant in all parts of the country.
Regarding the 2020 primary runners-up, I don't think most of the visions laid out then work post-2024, and for this reason I tend not to give too much weight to current Democratic primary polling, because it assumes these same people would be running again.
Assuming Biden ends his term without catastrophe, I don't think the party needs to place all their faith in a young, charismatic Obama wannabe like O'Rourke or Swalwell, nor does it need to drastically pivot to the center, nor does it need to proclaim itself the party of 'outsiders,' nor does it need to give the reins to the progressive wing. If everything goes right, they can remain ideologically where they are now (roughly) and establish a solid brand for the first time in a generation.
The Democrats been losing the branding war since the days of Nixon. They may currently have all the tools they need right now to change that, and set the expectations for the next fifty years of politics. Let's see how they do.
This is my first big write-up, so I almost certainly missed some stuff and made some assumptions. Let me know what you think.
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2023.06.02 13:59 dreftzg [Daily News] Oris Introduces A Very Purple Aquis, Hamilton Gives Groovy 70s Pan Europ Automatic The Ultimate 70s Color, IWC Slips White Dial Into The Mark XX And Arken Is A Fantastic Dual Time Affordable Watch
It's Friday and it looks like there's a bunch of watches in this edition that are supper affordable and aim way above their price point.
What's new
1/ Oris Introduces A Very, Very Purple Hölstein Edition 2023 Aquis, The First Without A Date For the fourth year in a row, Oris has announced its 2023 Hölstein Edition. Every year on June 1, Oris releases a 250-piece limited edition to celebrate the registration of its company in its hometown of Hölstein, Switzerland, on June 1, 1904. And this year they have for the first time used their Aquis diver for the special edition. And boy, is it special. First of all, it’s the first Aquis with no date. But, more importantly, it has the purpliest purple dial you have ever seen.
Other than the purple dial and lack of a date window, it’s an Aquis. 41.5mm wide, steel case, gray ceramic bezel insert and 300 meter water resistance. Introducing the watch, the co-CEO of Oris said in an interview that the purple as a dial color and a no-date Aquis were options fans have been asking for from Oris. I get that fans were asking for a no-date option. But purple? So many people explicitly asked for a purple dial? While I find that hard to believe, I won’t complain - it looks amazing.
Inside the watch is Oris’ caliber 400 with a five day power reserve, for which Oris promises 10-year service intervals and provides a 10-year warranty. On the caseback, there's Oris Bear diving in his scuba gear.
The watch will be limited to 250 pieces, available on Oris' website from June 1 for CHF 4,000 (~$4,400), a slight premium over the standard Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400. It’s a very nice shade of purple and it’s cool to see Oris have a bit of fun with watches, introducing this after the controversial Kermit Pro Pilot.
2/ Hamilton Gives Their Groovy 70s Inspired Pan Europ Automatic The Ultimate 70s Color - Beige Let’s say it again, all together - the 70s were the coolest era of watches. I know you don’t agree. I still think they were. And the good people over at the Swatch Group agree with me. That’s why in 2011 they revived the 1971 Pan Europ Chronomatic, which was one of the first Swiss-made Hamilton watches, equipped with the now legendary Calibre 11. The success of that model led Hamilton to add a simplified non-chronograph version in 2014, a day-date Pan Europ Automatic. And now they are putting out two new versions of that watch, both in very 70s colorways - a light green and a beige sunray.
The cushion-shaped steel case is 42mm wide and has a a polished unidirectional rotating bezel with a burgundy aluminium insert, with numerals indicating 5-minute increments, and marked with one-minute differences for the first quarter-hour. Despite the rotating bezel, this is not a diver, as it only has a 50m water resistance.
Other than the new colors, the dial remains the same, with two cutouts at 3 o’clock for the day and date indicators. The rectangular, sloped hour indices (with middle Super-LumiNova stripes) as well bulged-in the inner bezel ring with the minute track are all very 70s. The nickeled hour and minute hands are also coated with Super-LumiNova, and the second hand is lacquered to match the bezel colour and the markings on the dial.
Inside is the H30 movement, based on the ETA C07 series (Powermatic 80) calibre, an evolution of ETA’s 2824-2 calibre. You can get the watches on a green or beige soft touch leather racing-style strap, closed with a pin buckle, with an additional brown or burgundy NATO textile strap, depending on the dial colour.
The watches are now available as non-limited editions, and the price is EUR 1,195.
3/ IWC Slips White Dial Into The Familiar Mark XX To Celebrate 75 Years Of The Mark Series If you want an IWC pilot’s watch you will go to their boutique, admire the craftsmanship and impressiveness of the Big Pilot, and you will then buy a Mark series watch, because you are likely not built like Arnold Schwarzenegger and can’t pull off a car wheel on your wrist. Ever since 1993, when IWC launched the Mark XII as a replica of the Mark 11 made for the British Royal Air Force, the Mark series has been seen as the entry-level model in the Pilot’s Watch series, and now IWS is releasing an update to last year’s Mark XX with two new silver-white editions.
If the Pilot’s Watch series of IWC often brings to mind the oversized, almost provocative Big Pilot model (and we mean the real one, not the smaller, simpler 43mm version), there’s another watch that, even though more discreet, might be of even greater importance… The Mark series. First introduced as a watch for the pilots of the British Royal Air Force, under codename Mark 11, it has later become one of the most classic series of the brand, with the launch of the Mark XII in 1993, as a replica now also intended to civilian amateurs. Now known as the entry-level model in the Pilot’s Watch series, this no-nonsense watch entered its Mark XX version last year, and IWC now releases two new silvery-white editions.
The Mark XX measures 40mm wide, 10.8mm thick, 49.2mm long and has a screw down crown giving it a water resistance of 100m. Most of the steel case is brushed for a rugged tool-watch look, with a couple of polished accents. As for the dial, no surprises. It’s all very much Mark series, with a clean layout, highly legible markers and tracks and a time-and-date display. The Mark XX brought some minor evolutions, such as slightly redefined numerals and indices improving time reading and contrast. The two new references get silver-plated dials, blackened hands and black tracks – except for the indices marking the quarters, which are white and luminous.
Inside, the Mark XX has the biggest improvement over the predecessor. Instead of the past ETA and Sellita movements, the XX gets the calibre 32111, a movement made by ValFleurier and also used in the recently launched Ingenieur.
When the brand says they are releasing two new references with white dials, they mean that the only difference is what kind of strap you get them on. You can have it on a black leather strap (IW328207) or a 5-link stainless steel bracelet (IW328208).
The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX White Dial is available now through all priced at EUR 5,700 (incl. taxes) on leather, and EUR 6,800 (incl. taxes) on steel bracelet.
4/ Arken Unveils Their Second Act With The Dual-Time Equipped Alterum Arken is a U.K.-based microbrand that released its first watch last year. It was a titanium diver called the Instrumentum. It came just in time for summer and as a integrated bracelet sports watch, at the height of the integrated bracelet sports watch craze, it sold out instantly. It’s not that weird that it sold out so fast, considering it had a titanium case, a depth rating of 300 meters and a shockingly low pre-order price of just $500. Here they are, back this year with their second watch and are jumping on another trend bandwagon - the GMT - with their titanium dual-time travel watch called the Alterum.
The Alterum carries over a bunch of the Instrumentum, but this is a much more elegant watch that looks way more expensive than it’s price point. Gone is the aggressive bezel of the diver, replaced by a fixed brushed bezel without any markings. Kind of weird for a GMT… It’s measures 40mm in width, 46mm lug to lug and 13mm in case thickness, but since the bezel is 38mm wide it looks much smaller than it actually is.
Also carried over is the unique handset (although smaller and less aggressive) and distinct hour marker layout intertwined by its own solid track line. Accompanying the handset is a colored lollipop GMT hand and a pair of AM/PM indicators that correspond to each hour hand. The date is at six o’clock and is managed by the screwdown pusher located at four. The main highlight of the Alterum’s dial is its frosted texture, one of which comes in an anthracite gray with an orange GMT hand and another with a black dial and a blue GMT hand. You are completely free to call me crazy, but this watch is giving me Vacheron Overseas "Everest" Dual Time vibes with the orange hand, textured dial, pusher at 4 and even the bracelet.
Inside is a modified Miyota 9015 that the brand calls the ARK-9015DT. And it’s not a slight modification. It has an additional additional 12-hour hand and two AM/PM indicators that work in tandem with each hour hand, which helps a lot since the bezel does not have any markings. The movement also has some peculiarities you won’t see in others. Rotating the hands clockwise moves the entire handset, including the GMT hand, as well as both AM/PM indicator discs. However, moving the handset in the opposite direction will lock the GMT hand and its corresponding AM/PM indicator (left of the dial) allowing you to set the time difference between your local and home times. With the time difference adjusted, you can now adjust the hands moving forward to the correct local time. Since it’s such a weird movement, it can’t exactly be called a caller or a flyer GMT movement, but rather a combination of both.
Arken is offering the Alterum publically via a pre-order with either a grey or a black dial, and both will come on a quick-release nylon strap for $700 on release day (July 1, 2023) or $745 thereafter. Additionally, the brand will offer other versions of the Alterum via a private members-only platform that has been established for those that bought the Instrumentum last year. These include a black dial version with a black cerakoted case and a version with a white dial. While not specifically limited, each of the given colorways will be produced in runs of 200 units, and deliveries are expected to start no earlier than January 2024.
5/ Isotope Teams Up With Watch Customizer Seconde/Seconde/ For Limited Edition Hydrium Diver, A Memento Mori Watch Without A Skull Seconde/Seconde/ is a brand name for Romaric André, a former financial auditor who has in recent year profiled himself as one of the leading vintage watch customizers, known especially for replacing hands with those of his own design. He has worked with a whole slew of brands, including Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen, Louis Erard, Bamford and H. Moser & Cie, creating watches that take the original and update it with fun. His latest collaboration is with the UK based Isotope, a brand known for their strong visual design and accessible prices and together they created a Seconde/Seconde/ version of the Isotope Hydrium dive watch.
The Hydrium comes in a 40mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional bezel, screw down crown, sapphire crystal and 300m water resistance. The dial is a matte black with a raised lacrima in the center of the dial and a railroad-style minute track printed along the periphery in white with small bright green blocks to denote the hour markers. At the top of the dial is Isotope’s original logo, although it has been overhauled by Seconde/Seconde/ and given a number of bright green updates. The actual letters of the Isotope name have been rearranged to spell “OTOPSIE” (autopsy), with green arrows pointing to where the letters would go if the logo were to be printed normally.
While autopsy might sound a bit morbid, the brand points out that this is a memento mori watch, without a skull. Additional reminders of your mortality are the hands. While the hour and minute hand appear in Isotope’s classic i-shaped format, the bright green seconds hand has a shape that mirrors the appearance of a failing heartbeat on an ECG machine.
The new Isotope Hydrium Seconde/Seconde, a limited edition of 50 pieces, is offered on a quick-release soft black leather strap with a signed microblasted steel buckle. Inside is the Swiss Landeron 24 automatic movement, which follows the same core design as the ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200 but better decorated with perlage and Geneva stripes.
The Isotope Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/ is now available from the brand’s website and priced at GBP 900 (excl. taxes).
6/ H. Moser & Cie Revamps The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph 2.0 Despite being made in just 100 pieces and just before the pandemic, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner, a luxury sports watch elements with an unusually fluid shape, was a huge hit for the brand. Since January 2020, the Streamliner has evolved into a collection with time-only, tourbillon and perpetual calendar models. It is now time for the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph to undergo a slight update, entering its 2.0 phase.
There aren’t any huge updates here, but still welcome. The originality of this collection is intact, with its rounded curves. 42.3mm in diameter and with a relative thickness of 14mm, it features a cool radially brushed finish on top. The dial, apart from a single detail, hasn’t changed. It retains its fumé funky blue colour, tachymeter scale on the periphery and hands with Globolight inserts. The one detail that has changed is the logo, which is now made using transparent lacquer… almost like a secret signature, a reminder of the pre-eminence of the product.
Inside the case is the same calibre HMC 907, a movement that is also known as the AgenGraphe and that has been developed by talented movement maker Agenhor. The architecture, an automatic column-wheel chronograph with an innovative horizontal clutch with a friction wheel (to avoid any issues when the teeth intermesh and reduce unwanted jerks), is the same as before, but the power reserve is now boosted at 72 hours. It has been refreshed with new decoration, including Moser stripes angled at 45° and anthracite grey rhodium plating on the bridges and main plate.
Now available and part of the permanent collection, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue 2.0 is priced at CHF 45,000.
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On hand - a selection of reviews
1/ The Grand Seiko SBGH283 you can only buy at their Studio Shizukuishi in Japan 2/ A review of the Panerai Radiomir California PAM01349 in Brunito eSteel -------------------------------------------------------------
Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like
The new Tool Watch Co. Diver is a lot of watch for not a lot of money The Tool Watch Co. Diver will be available as of today through the company’s Indiegogo crowdfunding campaign. During this period, you’ll be able to order the watch for US$295, and after that, the Diver will cost US$500. Even at its regular retail price, I think this watch delivers a lot of value for its money. But especially at that lower introduction price, it feels like an absolute steal. A titanium dive watch with an automatic movement, 300m water resistance, a sapphire crystal, a very decent titanium bracelet…should I go on? I think that’s really impressive for less than $300!
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