Hey all!
I'm working on switching up my kit, so I've got a bunch of sweet gear looking for a new home. Each item includes a description, price and condition rating. I'll cover shipping and PayPal G&S fees on all transactions. Bundles welcome, but not required. I may also consider some potential trades, please see my wishlist at the bottom of the post. PM if interested!
Photos of gear here: https://imgur.com/a/8pEwmLU
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$850 - Fuji X-Pro2 - Black - 8.5+ Condition: Works perfectly, looks great. Minor scratches along the top plate, normal wear elsewhere. Includes body cap, generic thumb grip, wrist strap, OEM charger, OEM battery, and one generic battery. No box.
$800 - Ricoh GR III + GW-4 Wide Conversion Lens - 8.5 Condition: Lens looks perfect. Body has some minor scuffs, mainly around the front barrel from being carried in my pocket. Minor brassing on the hotshoe mount. PLEASE NOTE - Rear dial does not seem to function properly - however this has never been an issue for me as I use the front command dial for everything. The GW-4 looks pristine to my eye, but I've never used it. Includes wrist strap, blue lens ring, GW-4 Wide Conversion Lens + hood (sorry, no adapter), 2 OEM batteries, box and documentation. It's weird, I've carried this camera almost daily for 2 years, but still don't actually use it enough. I've just never gelled with the focal length enough to be my daily carry.
$500 - Fuji 16mm f/1.4 WR - 9 Condition: Glass appears flawless to my eye. There's a small nick on the aperture ring and one on the barrel. Includes Haoge hood and cap, rear cap and OEM lens pouch. No box. Beautiful lens that I just don't use often enough to justify keeping.
$325 - Fuji 23mm f/2 WR- 9 Condition: Glass appears flawless to my eye. Minor wear on the focus ring. Includes OEM hood and caps, box and documentation. This is my go-to focal length. It's why I keep bouncing back and forth between this lens and the X100 series. If I could justify (or afford) having both, I would.
$300 - Fuji 35mm f/2 WR- 9 Condition: Glass appears flawless to my eye. Minor wear on the focus ring. Includes OEM hood and caps, box and documentation. I love this lens so much I still have another copy of it.
$500 - Fuji 56mm f/1.2 (non WR version) - 9 Condition: Glass appears flawless to my eye. Minor wear on the focus and aperture rings, as well as scuffs on the hood. Includes OEM hood and both caps, box, documentation, OEM lens pouch and a Fotga variable ND filter. Another beautiful lens that I just don't use often enough to justify keeping.
$125 - Samyang 85mm 1.4 (Fuji X-Mount, version 1) - 9+ Condition: I really can't see any flaws on the glass or body. Includes OEM hood, caps and box. This is a surprisingly sharp lens for the price. And a great option for someone who's looking for a cheap telephoto option or just wants to experiment more with manual focus.
$60 - Yongnuo 560III Speedlight + Wireless 560-TX Trigger - 8.5 Condition: Looks good enough and works flawlessly. This is a somewhat older speedlight for the Fuji system, so it's only operable manually and does not work with HSS. That said, it's a solid little bugger. Just tested it, and the wireless works great.
Otherwise, I've got a limited history here. Only one confirmed trade, but sold some items back in the days before the bot. That said, I do have 100% positive feedback over at the Fred Miranda forums. And that profile points back to my reddit account. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=stoutvisual
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Potential trades:
X100V, X-E4 (HAHAHA, I know) and/or X-T3.
Fuji 18mm f/2, 33mm 1.4, 50mm f2, 55-200

With the NEM3 rules changing the landscape, we have noticed people getting quoted longer payback periods for their systems, making solar much less attractive (unless you've got us)
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We can do better:

• We're about hooking people up and operate in a lean and agile manner
• We have some secret tricks up our sleeves to create bigger wins for our customers
• We are willing to do things for our customers that no one else is willing to do
• We have access to some crazy pricing :)

We've done this before for the Reddit community (and have managed to keep it under the radar so far) doing installs in the $1 to $1.6/W range.
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NEM3, combined with the current financial landscape, adds a little bit of complexity 😅 to the equation:

• Payback periods are longer (NEM3 was engineered to create 10 year payback periods)
• Batteries need to be part of the system and cycled aggressively to arbitrage high and low rates (but if you've got enough space, we can brute-force savings with panels alone)
• These batteries are generally only warrantied for 10 years, but if cycled daily, they would not be expected to last much longer - and if financing you'd still be paying off a loan on some dead equipment 💩💩💩
• Contractionary monetary policy aimed at inflation has rates in restrictive territory, and solar systems are financed on the pre-ITC amount, leading to high interest payments, and insane dealer fees

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Unfazed, we sharpened our pencils, churned spreadsheets, and we've now got a solution we can offer (in limited quantities) should serendipity allow our paths to cross.
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For example, a NEM3 Frugll-Hacked 🥷 system would look like this:
Current usage: 26,418 kWh (high summer bills) - $780/mo ($9800/year) average bill (SCE NEM3 TOU-PRIME)
Solution: 63x365W Q-Cells + 2 Powerwalls+ - 36,520 kWh/year + Full 25 year maintenance & warranty under TOU-D Option 4-9 PM (NEM3) - Including extended warranty for batteries
Cash price (due at installation): $48,022.00 (incl all taxes)
Financed (15y) - $487/mo (no prepayment penalty, no dealer fees - in case interest rates drop)/
Financed (10y) - $609/mo
Payback period: ~ 5 years
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This is a direct-to-consumer Reddit offer only - DM us or call us for deets :)

Maintenance contractor here looking to lower my fuel costs, I’m clueless when it comes to battery technology and figured I ask this community were I should start as I’ve herd great things about ego brand. I’d like to get into the electric world with a trimmer being my first investment. I’m in need for the longest running battery offered as I will be operating on big commercial contracts that I trim up to 2 hours of run time a visit at most. Im open to investing in a couple batteries to have on standby/charge while not in use. Is this possible to achieve with the ego platform? If so What model trimmer and battery should I be looking at? Open to all suggestions! Thanks!

Want to feel confident again in your favorite dress? Ever feel like no matter how hard you train, your booty just doesn't seem to show results? The Electrical Hip Muscle Stimulator solves this problem for you instantly!
https://zafyn.com/collections/new-products/products/electrical-hip-muscle-stimulator
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https://reddit.com/link/13vcpmz/video/ogac0jaool261/player
This allows you to train your booty and lower bodyeffectively from the comfort of your own home. It uses electrical muscle stimulation to promote muscle movement, scientifically proven to tighten your musclesto help achieve that perfect figure.

Highlights:

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• Electronic muscle stimulation: stimulate the hip and gluteal muscles and help to tone, tighten and firm your hips and buttocks to achieve the body that you’ve always wanted
• Exercise anytime: provide endless possibilities in training your booty like in front of the TV, when doing the dishes, or even when cooking
• U-shaped design: ergonomic pads cover targeted regions in the buttocks to stimulate nerves where they are most concentrated
• Cost-effective: save time and money on expensive gym subscriptions and allow you the convenience of getting amazing results without tiring workouts

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• You only need to train for 15-20 minutes/day to get that noticeable improvement in just 4 weeks
• Easy to use push-button operation with 6 modes and 10 intensity levels
• With a push of a button, you can adjust the intensity of the stimulation and go about with your daily activities
• 100% skin-friendly and pain-free

Specifications:

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• Material: PU
• Power Source: 2 x AAA batteries (not included)
• Certificate: CE/EMC, ROHS-certified
• Color: Black & Orange
• Size: Approximately 260mm x 188mm x 12.8mm

Package Includes:

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• 1 x Electrical Hip Muscle Stimulator with Reuseable Gel Pads
• 1 Set of Reusable Gel Pad Replacement

https://zafyn.com/collections/new-products/products/electrical-hip-muscle-stimulator

So I think the game needs a Mk.2 Bio Burner and here's why:
-We don't want to make any changes to the Biomass burner (Mk1) for balance reasons.
-The Biomass burner is the only energy producer that matches output to your energy needs. This can be useful as "reserve energy" even when you have coal set up.
-But, the Biomass burner is basically obsolete once you unlock Power Storage - it does the same job better, and there's no limit to how many you can build. This makes the "emergency backup power" problem too easy to solve, with no room for more complex and interesting solutions.
-I find the Power Storage to be too easy. It requires no resources, almost no thought or effort.
-Coal Generator can use coal, compacted coal or even coke for continued evolution.
-Fuel generator combinations with fuel and Turbofuel are already plentiful. I doubt anyone burns biofuel in the generator just for it to evaporate into unused energy.
-biofuel has been given one new advantage in upcoming Update 8 with the jet pack, but ultimately that will consume very little of it, like maybe 10-20 stacks max in the course of a normal game?
*******
So, I would propose we sack the Power Storage, and replace it with the Mk2 Bio burner:
-it could have a fluid input, like the fuel generator, to run exclusively on liquid biofuel
-power generation operates like the biomass burner, it only consumes resources when there's a demand.
-this would encourage building of an interesting bio fuel factory, and not punish you for bothering to do so, the way dumping into the fuel generator will expend it needlessly. All the wood, grass, etc you choose to dump into the system would basically be power storage, not infinitely renewable BUT automated.
-QOL feature would be to have an alarm / notification that lets you know when biofuel is being burned, the way Power Storage tells you you're operating on battery power. I suppose it would lack the feature of a timer, but oh well. I personally find the timer irrelevant, since it's usually like over 9000 hours worth.
-I don't see it affecting balance too much. It would naturally unlock later than Power Storage currently does, but as long as you don't immediately tear down your original Biomass Burner setup the moment you get coal up and running, you still have your temporary reserve energy, and you can of course increase this as much as you want. You'll recycle any solid biofuel you make with the Mk2 anyway.
So what do you think? See any glaring issues with the proposal?

https://miningir.com/the-glittering-legacy-of-gold-a-timeless-hedge-against-inflation-in-the-21st-century/
Throughout human history, few commodities have captivated the imagination and influenced economies as much as gold. From its early uses in ancient civilizations to its role as a global standard of wealth, gold has stood the test of time. In the 21st century, this precious metal continues to shine, particularly as a reliable hedge against inflation. This article explores the historical significance of gold and its enduring appeal as a safe haven in times of economic uncertainty.
Gold’s allure dates back thousands of years. Ancient civilizations revered it for its beauty, rarity, and durability. From the pharaohs of Egypt to the empires of Rome and Greece, gold adorned royal regalia, sacred temples, and intricate jewelry. In time, gold emerged as a medium of exchange and a store of value. Its universal acceptance and intrinsic worth made it a trusted means of conducting trade across cultures and continents.
One of the key reasons gold has retained its value over centuries is its ability to act as a safe haven in times of economic uncertainty. During periods of inflation, when the value of fiat currencies erodes, gold tends to maintain its purchasing power. Investors turn to gold as a hedge against currency devaluation and rising prices. Its limited supply, combined with its enduring appeal, gives gold an inherent stability that attracts investors seeking refuge from the volatility of other asset classes.
In the 21st century, the global economy has faced numerous challenges, including inflationary pressures. Inflation erodes the value of fiat currencies and decreases purchasing power. Central banks often respond to economic downturns by adopting expansionary monetary policies, such as printing more money or reducing interest rates, which can further fuel inflation. As a result, investors seek assets that can preserve their wealth in times of inflation, and gold stands as a favored choice due to its historical track record.
The Toronto Venture Exchange (TSXV) has gained recognition as a hub for junior mining companies. These companies explore, develop, and mine gold deposits with significant growth potential. Investing in junior mining stocks offers investors the opportunity to gain exposure to gold’s performance while also benefiting from potential capital appreciation as these companies uncover new resources.
Junior mining stocks can be enticing for investors due to the potential for substantial returns. The exploration and development of new gold deposits can lead to significant value appreciation if successful. However, it is crucial to note that investing in junior mining stocks carries inherent risks. These include the uncertainties of resource estimation, geopolitical factors, regulatory challenges, and operational risks. Thorough due diligence and careful consideration of the company’s track record and management are essential for mitigating these risks.
Gold’s attributes make it an effective hedge against inflation in the 21st century. Its limited supply ensures that it cannot be easily inflated like fiat currencies. Additionally, gold’s value is not tied to any specific government or central bank, which provides insulation from the policies and actions of individual nations. This independence allows gold to serve as a store of value that holds up against the erosive effects of inflation, making it an attractive option for investors seeking stability and wealth preservation.
As the world becomes increasingly interconnected and economies face ongoing challenges, gold’s status as a hedge against inflation remains relevant. In an era of unprecedented fiscal and monetary policies, gold retains its intrinsic value and acts as a reliable asset. While the specific market dynamics and economic landscapes may evolve, the enduring qualities of gold position it as a timeless hedge against inflation, offering investors a safe haven in an uncertain world.
Gold’s illustrious history and enduring allure as a store of value have solidified its position as a trusted hedge against inflation. Its scarcity, beauty, and universal acceptance have made it a desirable asset across cultures and time periods. As the 21st century unfolds with its economic uncertainties, gold continues to shine as a reliable store of wealth, offering investors a timeless hedge against inflationary pressures.

Hey all! I did an upgrade to my 2012 ruckus that I'm sure a lot of you have done which is adding the NCY CDI box to my setup. I am running into an issue though. I have attached all the wires and everything seems to be in order, but the issue lies with the connection to the coil. The ruckus operates fine when I have the stock connections, but as soon as I attach the orange and yellow wires the scooter only runs when I have the starter pressed. Not sure where to even start. My connections to the coil seem good, it has a new battery, and I replaced all the relays. Any help would be great!
UPDATE: I finally got it to start (wiring issue) but I took it for a spin and did not notice much of a difference, thoughts?

This server has a hardcore vanilla feel but with tasteful mods and cool features that aren't available in official servers. Check it out if you're interested! I'm hoping to grow a community of DayZ enthusiasts who love the vanilla plus experience.
Server Features
Active admins
Vanilla stamina and loot economy
Dark nights
NVGs can spawn in any military area
AK101 and AK74 have rare green and black versions along with the individual attachments spawning rarely
Green and black M4 attachments also spawn rarely
Camo and green plate carriers spawn in military areas
Black plate carriers spawn in dynamic events
Plate carrier attachments of all colors spawn in military areas
Shoes spawn pristine or worn
Loot spawns in green military towers
Less useless items like thermometers and construction helmets
Flashlight have a chance to spawn with a battery
Witch hoods spawn in red, brown, and black variants
Military backpacks with weapon slots rarely spawn in dynamic events and toxic zones
Noteworthy Mods
Advanced Weapon Scopes-Adds a better variety of scopes and adapters.
Autorun
BuildEverywhere
Building Fortifications-Adds the ability to build window barricades and doors with a vanilla feel. Window barricade kits and door kits are crafted the same way as vanilla wall kits (rope and sticks).
Car Cover-Allows vehicles to be covered with camo nets.
Code Lock
Ear Plugs
Flip Transport-Allows vehicles to be "pushed" in case they get stuck or flip over.
MMG Base Storage-Adds many new storage items such as cabinets, gun racks, and safes.
MMG Civilian Clothing
No Vehicle Damage-Vehicles can no longer take collision damage however they can still be damaged with bullets, explosives, overrevving, deep water, or driving without enough water in the radiator.
Red Falcon Flight System Heliz-Adds helicopters into the game which mostly spawn in military areas. They will require parts, fuel, and hydraulic fluid to operate.
RFFS Heli Car Cover Addon-Adds the ability to cover helicopters with camo nets.
Trader Plus-Adds car codelocks and car lockpicks which are both rare on this server. Car codelocks can be found in the same areas as codelocks however car lockpicks only spawn at dynamic events such as helicopter crashes. Please note that this server does not have traders.
Vehicle 3PP
ViewInventoryAnimation
WindstridesClothingPack
Zen Notes-Adds pens to the server which can be combined with paper to write custom notes that can be stuck to surfaces.
Please feel free to check out my discord for more information
https://discord.gg/Fn2mKdUp

I have a 2020 Ram Promaster City Tradesman SLT that overheated yesterday, most likely due to the radiator fan not functioning. I have had this fan stop working before and replaced it about a year ago without issue. I feel pretty confident the fan is the cause again after attempting to jumpstart the fan from the battery to no avail.
My main question is: when it overheated yesterday while idling in a parking lot, about 70%ish of the coolant leaked out before I noticed the engine smoking and shut it down. I filled the coolant back up today and got the car up to operating temp and put the AC on for a minute or two and didn't replicate the leak. The fan still doesn't spin as expected and I didn't let the van overheat again by running the AC long enough without the fan spinning.
What could have caused the leak to dump so much coolant quickly that wouldn't have happened again today? I'm an idiot with cars so I didn't know how to diagnose without physically seeing the leak replicated. I ordered a new fan but I assume something else may need work if it was leaking.
Thanks!

I have a 2020 Ram Promaster City Tradesman SLT that overheated yesterday, most likely due to the radiator fan not functioning. I have had this fan stop working before and replaced it about a year ago without issue. I feel pretty confident the fan is the cause again after attempting to jumpstart the fan from the battery to no avail.
My main question is: when it overheated yesterday while idling in a parking lot, about 70%ish of the coolant leaked out before I noticed the engine smoking and shut it down. I filled the coolant back up today and got the car up to operating temp and put the AC on for a minute or two and didn't replicate the leak. The fan still doesn't spin as expected and I didn't let the van overheat again by running the AC long enough without the fan spinning.
What could have caused the leak to dump so much coolant quickly that wouldn't have happened again today? I'm an idiot with cars so I didn't know how to diagnose without physically seeing the leak replicated. I ordered a new fan but I assume something else may need work if it was leaking.
Thanks!

My Harmony remote battery finally gave up after years of happy service. I was really torn about just ordering a battery, tearing it apart and seeing if I could resurrect it. Reading over the reviews, Reddit and general instructions on the X1 I figured I'd give it a go and return if it seemed as bad as so many had commented. I was fully expecting a difficult set up especially given a few of my home theater components have some age to them.
While there's a few things I'd nit pick about the X1 I was pleasantly surprised with the ease of set-up. My Denon AVR-991 wasn't in the database but adding the basic commands was fast. Took me a few minutes to figure out how to turn on the source settings for it but not bad. As a LONG time Harmony user this interface to add devices is MUCH better than some of the old Harmony ways of doing it. Remote and buttons feel decent, not exactly premium but good. The app is pretty straightforward and I think makes sense. Had a bit of a struggle getting it to play nice with Google home but once I removed the Harmony link and changed the activity to non-keyword names it did ok. Like others have mentioned you can't do a ton but you can do enough.
Only 2 days in so I'm waiting to see if any of the operation issues others have commented on happen to me.
Complaints/suggestions. I miss the touch screen and would be nice to have that back. Adding icons to the screen to automatically change on streaming service to another on the Roku was great. The step of having to go home is just annoying. Harmony made that super easy. One other item is adding a default service when powering on an activity. I'm guessing I'll be able to add that into the activity steps but it's not intuitive to do. Screen is ok but that font is so ugly. Scroll wheel so close to good but it's not. If there was a right left toggle you could navigate the screens without having to go up to the back button. Also think that would turn it into a great multiple use item. Get rid of the disk below and toggle the scroll wheel to control the screen or the devices.
I'm summary, I ordered the X1 really expecting to return it right away and am pretty pleased to say at this point it's my new remote. RIP, Harmony. Perhaps you won't be missed.

Updated May 2023
I recently changed Reddit accounts and it's been about a year, so it seemed prudent to repost this for visibility. :)

Link to the Below Zero guide

https://subnauticamap.io/ - This is an interactive map of the crater. However, be warned that it will show the general location of things you need to find. This can be toggled but if you have zero point of reference for the places mentioned in this guide, this map should provide one.

General tips are at the bottom, however, they rely on you having played at least part of the way through the game so I don't recommend checking them until at least part 3, AKA "Going Traveling"

Subnautica is a game primarily about exploring your environment while overcoming the trepidation that the game sets up in you over doing so. Although there isn't a perfect guide to being able to clear the game, there also isn't an unambiguous path of progression for the player, either.
Consequently new players often find themselves at an impasse in terms of progression and where to go. The following is a no-nonsense, straight to the point guide on how to progress, but it's not a bible. You can do most of this just by exploring and wandering around.
A blind playthrough is critical to the first time player experience. This is often true of every game but for Subnautica it makes or breaks the whole story - you need to have no idea what the hell is going on the first time you clear the game. If you spoil it for yourself you will regret it, please believe me in this. This guide is meant to give you a nudge when you find you don't know where to go next, it's not really meant as a walkthrough, even though it can be used as one. Do yourself a favor friends, don't go wandering /subnautica or the wiki too much and this guide will not lead you astray. It is written specifically for brand new players.

The Beginning

When you first arrive on 4546b, you find yourself with basically nothing. You're hungry, thirsty, your lifepod is broken and your cookies are gone. The Aurora is burning (and you nearly did too) but despite all that, you're alive and this planet is about to get some Ryley in it.
The environment around you has most of what you need to get started. The metal scrap strewn around the shallows provides an easy source of Titanium while you can break limestone and sandstone to get the minerals you need for your starting tools. You'll want the quartz you find for glass.
Although you have a number of options for making equipment, at this stage I don't recommend using resources for the air pump or pipes. Truth is they don't really have much use; they create a breathing line from the surface for when you're diving, but they're expensive and there's better alternatives in your near future.
Once you have a scanner and knife, take the time to scan everything you can. All the local wildlife can be scanned and most of the flora.
Your objective at this point is to build a repair gun, knife, seaglide, flashlight and scanner.

Branching Out

Now that you've got your basic tools and you can get around a little, it's time to begin exploring. At this point you've seen the deeper waters on the edges of the kelp forest.
It's time to go take a look.
The red grassy plains have what you need to progress to deeper waters. You'll want to explore the wrecks there. There are four grassy plains surrounding the shallows at compass points and cave systems exist in three of them which will become relevant later, but are largely out of your reach for now. It is out here that you will find fragments necessary for an important task you must complete soon. Raiding the aurora will require the laser cutter you learn to make here. You'll also want a propulsion cannon, which you can find the fragments to near the side of the Aurora. DO NOT GO AROUND THE BACK OF THE AURORA. SERIOUSLY. You are not prepared for that level of giggling insanity yet.
By now you've fixed the radio and may have triggered the sunbeam event, in which case you will want to go follow that. Give yourself the full span of time to go to the island and explore unless you'd prefer to explore after the event, but don't let yourself get distracted by what you find there and miss the ship arriving. The signals you've been getting are important prompts and need to be checked out when possible, so make sure you take the time to do that. Also, when you go to either island DO NOT PARK YOUR SEAMOTH NEAR THE BEACH. DO NOT PARK YOUR SEAMOTH NEAR THE BEACH. There is a real risk of it phasing through the ground and becoming inaccessible and then you'll end up on this subreddit asking how to get it back like the other 5 guys a week. Seriously.
Also note that bringing an ion cube to the top of the mountains caves will let you do something interesting up there, but I won't be specific. A scanner room at this spot is ideal not just to track the reaper leviathan on the eastern side of the island but there is quite a lot of shale and lithium here as well, which is probably something you're gonna want.

Going traveling

At this point you should have a seamoth, your basic tools, a laser cutter, propulsion cannon and lead suit. You are prepared. It's time to go to the Aurora... but only if you've gotten the communication from Alterra with the captains door code. Otherwise, you must wait for that radio event. You can go explore the ship anyways of course, but not having the code means you can't get into the captains room, requiring you to go back and get it later. So it's up to you. You can open the door anyways if you get the code off the internet or something but since the game gives it to you anyways, you can always wait for the prompt. If not, the door code is 2679
If you have a cyclops I don't recommend taking it, since reapers hang out at the front and back ends of the ship. However, a seamoth is small enough to fit through the broken superstructure of the ship at the front and thus avoid this danger. There are two ways to access the ship and although it seems impossible, you CAN in fact climb up to access the open one. Otherwise, you can use the prop cannon to move the debris out of the way of the door near water level. Be sure to take the time to explore inside and use the carry-all bags to leave stuff you want to keep from the ship out the front so you can come back and pick it all up later. There's lots of useful stuff in there.
As a side note here, the leech-like things that annoy you in the reactor room are called Bleeders. I hate Bleeders personally, but I noted that if you grab one with the propulsion cannon and fling it into the wall out of sheer spite then other bleeders will be attracted to the body, which makes grabbing and doing the same to them quite easy. Clearing the entire room of those little #*([email protected]'s only takes a couple minutes.
You can get the codes for various rooms inside from the PDA's you find. Also note that some doors can only be opened once you repair them. Sometimes the Aurora glitches and these repair sections don't work but because the ship has two entrances, you can always go around the back to clear the whole thing, which is... annoying. If you don't mind being patient, leaving the Aurora and doing other things for awhile will reset the wreck, allowing you to come back later and potentially be able to repair the doors then.
The codes for the ship are:
Cabin No. 1: 1869
Captain's Quarters: 2679
Cargo Bay: 1454
Lab Access: 6483

Time to go down

With the Aurora repaired you have the ability to wear things other than the lead suit, so it's time to chuck that in the trash 'cuz you won't need it again. It's time to get the outer wrecks in the zones beyond the shallows and hoo boy ain't that gonna be an experience.
The cyclops is your friend here. But what's this, you don't have a cyclops? Well, that's okay. You may have found one of the engine fragments on the aurora in the cargo bay but if you missed it, it's not really a big deal. Your next objective to build one is to go explore mushroom forest and the underwater floating islands for the fragments you'll need. If you've been following your radio signals you've probably been to the aurora rendezvous point by now, but if not, take the time to go thoroughly explore that island. One of the PDAs you need to find the next place is not at the degasi base, but on one of the paths of the island near an arch of rock. You'll need to explore the island thoroughly to find it. Make sure to scan everything and bring back plant samples if you have a seabase. You can use plant pots to keep food trees on your cyclops for easy access to food without worrying about curing everything all the time.
Once you have the cyclops, you need to take the time to upgrade your seamoth to depth so you can explore the various wrecks, supplement your PDA database and establish yourself properly for long-term operations. At this point in the game you should be aiming for or already have:
A seabase, even a basic one. A couple corridors with lockers are invaluable for storage and operations and the scanner room is MISSION CRITICAL. If you haven't built one yet, get on that!
A seamoth, either at or being upgraded to 500m depth
Knife, flashlight, repair gun, seaglide, scanner, laser cutter, propulsion or repulsion cannon, rebreather
Be sure to check everything, then check it again! It's easy to miss things on the island. Be sure to check the buildings on the tops of the hills there too. Although it would be nice to be able to plant land beacons (hint hint, Unknown Worlds), it's not feasible for marking out the precursor gate on the floating island so unfortunately, it's not of much use unless you have your base on one island or the other. I don't recommend the floating island for this for reasons which will become apparent later in the game.

Looking into the abyss

If you've explored most of or all of the wrecks and no longer have missing technology, it's time to go deeper. If you've been following your PDA signals you need to check out the degasi bases and follow their story, as they lead you to a large, deep cave which is the path to deeper places you need to explore.
There are several inlets to the place you need to reach. Northern Bulb Zone where it meets Mountains has a large entrance. Blood Kelp Zone and Trench both have entrances. The last one is in deep grand reef, where the final Degasi base is. I personally recommend either Deep Grand Reef or Bulb Zone but the latter has the most accessibility.
Raiding the final Degasi Base before exploring this cave system will get you the orange precursor key which you'll need to access something hidden at the southern end of the caves near blood kelp trench's entrance. While working down here I strongly recommend making liberal use of beacons as navigational guides if you're new to this place. It is VERY confusing and looks very same-y if you haven't spend a lot of time here.
Deep inside the caves you'll come upon a chamber with a massive skull sitting on a chunk of land in the middle and access to a slightly lower part of the cave system which is not green. This is the Cove Tree Cave and the brine there will not hurt you the way the green brine does. This leaves you able to free dive there to gather materials without needing to rely on your prawn.
This chamber with the skull is, in fact, the central chamber of Lost River. It is an excellent place for building a scanner station and the entire area is ludicrously rich in resources. It's a perfect place to stock up and catch up any upgrades, tools or devices you may be lacking so far. You'll want the resource stocks for later and honestly, it's just a really cool place to have a base in general.
The Disease Research Facility is in the north-eastern arm of Lost River, accessible through the Bulb Zone entrance. A juvenile ghost leviathan guards the path but as with most leviathans, operating in silent running and staying above or below it while sticking to the cave walls will get you by without any issue. If they do notice you, just pop a decoy, go full speed for about 5-8 seconds and then drop the engine to low and stay in silent running until you get far enough for the big ugly to stop bothering you.
The southern part of Lost River holds a large chamber with a ghost leviathan juvenile and houses another rather large skeleton. This area in particular is rich in large ore deposits and crystallized sulfur that you'll be needing for some big upgrades.
By the way, remember the cyclops shield? By now you're probably noticing that using the auxiliary functions on the cyclops eats a lot of power. Redundant power cells are your friend and if you feel you're worried about power costs while exploring, you lose nothing by having a buttload of spare power cells. It can pay off, being able to spam the shield for awhile and run away.
You'll want that shield for what's coming next.

Once More Unto The Deep

By now you've probably explored Lost River a bit and you're wondering where to go from here. If you've built a scanner room in the central chamber, you'll have noticed that the scanner, when at full range, shows a chamber below Lost River.
This is the inactive lava zone and it is here your answers lay.
You have two access points to reach this chamber. The North-east arm past the disease research facility and the cove tree caves. Both entrances are equally difficult to get through but the first one feels more open, if you don't mind the ghost leviathan circling around above the opening.
This chamber is rich with even more valuable resources, if you somehow haven't got enough already. The cove tree cave entrance leads to the western part of the ILZ chamber. The North-east entrance leads to the north edge of the chamber. The chamber itself is rather oval-shaped, with the western edge of it relatively empty and the eastern part containing a massive lava bubble.
If you wander around down here long enough the PDA will prompt you to take a look at that bubble a bit more closely. You will need two purple precursor keys to access the facility inside. Now that you're down here you'll notice there's a fair number of warpers, crimson rays (who are harmless) and leech-like things which will attach to the hull of your ship and drain power. That sounds like a problem, doesn't it?
Don't worry though, we got you covered. Once you're down here, go grab some kyanite and you can build the cyclops thermal reactor which pretty much eliminates the whole running out of power problem. The shield is a great way to get the leeches off your hull at the same time.
As for the leviathan, the sea dragon isn't actually a whole lot of threat. It might spit fire at you and is capable of picking up and biting the prawn but will mostly ignore you if you don't go hanging out in front of it.
With that said, treat it like any other leviathan while in the cyclops. Drive slow, keep an eye on it and if it gets curious, drop a decoy and move away ASAP. Cutting your engines once you've gotten a little distance will almost always make them lose interest.

But Wait, There's More!

If you've explored the inner depths of the lava bubble, then you have the blue key, ion battery plans and have opened the portal to the QEP. Great! Now coming down here in the prawn isn't a big deal and you don't have to drive the cyclops all the way down here to go grab resources. A small scanner base down here would be great for quickly finding what you need.
As you can probably guess, there's an even deeper chamber than this, which is the active lava zone. You can find the entrance by following the lava flows around the ILZ and keeping an eye on the floor. You'll find a large space big enough for the cyclops to lower down into.
Down here you'll find 2 sea dragons to avoid, so don't you get conservative with your power. By now you'll probably have built ion power cells and those can run your shield and sonar together for a full 5 minutes with silent running going so don't be shy about using them!
Getting into the alien base down here will require two blue keys, one for accessing the facility, the other for accessing the inner facility. It is here you will find the ion cube fabricator which requires the prawn. You can use this to open the warp gates in the facility. Six ion cubes in total are required for this. Four for the warp gates on the upper floor and two in the Sea Emperors tank. One of these leads back to the upper floor, if you find you're struggling to get back out. This gate in particular is about halfway up the tank at the back and sits on a large ledge. An ion cube is provided to activate it, giving you a way to walk out of the tank if you find you're struggling to get out.
And... that's pretty much it, really. After that encounter you'll know where to go and what to do. The paths laid out for you in the final facility lead you to the places you need to go to find the things you require.

Tips and tricks

• Keep floaters in your cyclops. When you're operating above 500m, running out of power, floaters will allow you to passively bring your ship to the surface without power expense so that you can resupply it. This is pretty much a last ditch move but it never hurts to be prepared.
  
• You can fit up to 8 basic plant pots in an observatory, which will grant you twice the amount of growing space as an indoor grow bed for the same amount of floor space while also making the crops more easily accessible.
  
• The engine comparment of the cyclops has a lower deck behind the vehicle bay which everybody ignores, but it's a great spot for plant shelves and marble melons for food security.
  
• Load your vehicles. Dedicate storage in them to supplies. Water, food, medkits, beacons, flares (bonesharks and crabsquids react to them) and spare power supplies for the vehicles. Keep this kit supplied and you will never be caught unprepared for an 'oh crap' situation.
  
• Okay, so you don't want to give up inventory space for your vehicles. The next best thing is then to fill a watertight locker or two with food, water, medpacks and maybe a couple spare batteries and power cells, then drop them someplace with a beacon next to them. Do this a dozen times in random spots around the map as you travel and now you have emergency caches you can access if you get into trouble.
  
• When you reach the point where materials gathering is easy, consider creating vehicle-creation drop points. 2-3 spots on the map with a mobile vehicle bay, a couple lockers with everything you need for a new seamoth and some basic supplies. If you lose your vehicle, it's a lot easier to make a replacement and get the mats than to get the mats to make a replacement.
  
• The propulsion gun is your friend. Use it to grab items to pick up, use it to grab cave crawlers and yeet them into low orbit, use it to pick up rocks and fling them at things you particularly don't like. Use it to collect gas pods from gasopods without getting hit by the cloud. Use it to move debris in wrecks. Bring a spare battery specifically for it because flinging things around uses a lot of power but the sheer utility of the tool makes it worth the cost.
  
• You'll be tempted to deck your seamoth out with all the toys but the truth is once you have the prawn, it's obsolete. Don't fall into the temptation of continuing to build tons of upgrades for it unless you plan to use it for a fast-fetch vehicle for things you need from far away. However, with that said, the seamoth is really the superior vehicle for wreck-diving.
  
• Keeping a second air tank in your inventory and swapping them mid-dive is a perfectly viable option. However, the tanks only refill when wearing them, so make sure to switch again once you're back in breathing space. This can and will save you when wreck diving and two ultra high quality tanks equals 450 seconds of air in total, or 7m30s of air.
  
• Speaking of air, you can use the air bladders alternate use key (F on PC - the same button for self-scanning) to get a few seconds of air out of it into your tank. It's not much - 20 seconds or so - but sometimes, that little bit extra can save your life if you're just out of reach of your vehicle.
  
• You can collect flora and fauna samples as you progress through the game and have a garden base specifically for growing plant samples from around the crater. Obviously this looks really nice (creepvine in an alien tank under the floor provides the room in your base with a nice golden glow) but is also useful later.
  
• SCANNER ROOMS. SERIOUSLY PEOPLE. If you're struggling to find the magnetite, go to Jellyshroom. If you're struggling to find Jellyshroom, always remember that lifepod 17 is directly next to one of its exit points. The range upgrades are incredibly important and the HUD chip makes the whole thing work.
  
• Farm supplies! You don't need to work or power anything to grow crops. Consider dropping a foundation with some growbeds, a beacon and your farmables (gel sack, creepvine seeds, creepvine samples, acid mushroom, blood oil and deepshrooms). Now you can stock up on things like batteries, rubber, lubricant, benzene, polyaniline. Keep a few of these crops in your cyclops for planting in new spots and never run out of the stuff you need while keeping your home base nice and lag free.
  
• Creature decoys can be deployed both by hand and by prawn propulsion arm, which lets you pull items out of your inventory to 'throw'. You can also do this with the propulsion cannon by using the F key (the alternate tool use button, the same one you use to self-scan, for all you console folks).
  
• Turning off your engines greatly reduces the chance of a leviathan damaging the cyclops, even if it's right on top of you. Moving is what gets their attention. If one is swimming near the sub, cut all engines and just wait patiently for it to get a little distance, then silent running and max speed for a few seconds. Pop a decoy for good measure if you want to make absolutely sure.
  
• You can access the right side of the Aurora relatively safely by going south to Crag Zone and then banking east into the deeper parts of crash zone. Most of the reapers are up by the ship, sticking to the bottom will keep you relatively safe and net you as much titanium as you will ever need.
  
• Blood kelp zone, the sea treader wreck and the meteor crater in Dunes all have secrets that you may find interesting.
  
• Remember the Bleeders in the reactor room of the Aurora? Bring a grav trap along - they're cheap, it's disposable - and enter through the top door by climbing along the wreckage up there. Pop the grav trap in the reactor room and kill one of them with the propulsion cannon - the others will come for the body and be stuck in the trap, making picking them off much, much easier than it would be trying to find them all individually. You can just leave the trap behind. If you have the stasis gun, you can wait for them to stack up in the grav trap, stun them, then drop gas pods amidst the several bleeders and watch them get bodied.
  
• Gas pods 'o doom also work against leviathans. They work against EVERYTHING. You just need a lot of them, but getting a lot of them is really easy with the propulsion cannon (which can fire them too, by the way).
  
• Reefback barnacles are a good source of copper and silver, but beware the tiger plants on their backs. If you have a reinforced dive suit, tiger plants can't hurt you, but without one they're a pain. You can yeet them with the propulsion cannon. That trick works for drooping stingers too.
  
• Beacons everywhere. No seriously, everywhere. You'd be amazed how few people use them as much as they ought to be used.
  
• Eastern red grass plains has deep caves with a type of plant which can only be found in a few select spots on the map. Bulb Zone's lifepod has caves with some nearby and the Dunes also has some, but a Reaper is guarding them. If you do manage to find the spot though, it's GREAT for rubies!
  
• Scanner room cameras are a good way to keep track of nearby leviathans. They also force the terrain to load, which is required for the scanner room to actually pick things up. Stalkers will snag the cameras and move them around, but they're pretty useful for quickly getting the scanner room working right. The wildlife ignores the cameras too, so if you want a really nice picture of some creature you really hate getting close to, they're a great way to get it.
  
• Breed some stalkers, release them outside your base next to a pile of metal scrap and never worry about finding teeth for glass again. Barring that? Drop a random beacon in the kelp forest and wait for a stalker to collect it, follow it back to their stash and drop a grav trap.
  
• Light sticks can be good for wreck diving, as are flares. Flares provide much better lighting in large open spaces than the flashlight or seaglide. It makes them a good alternative to the flashlight in the early game.
  

• DO NOT PARK YOUR SEAMOTH NEAR THE BEACHES. DO NOT PARK YOUR SEAMOTH NEAR THE BEACHES. DO NOT PARK YOUR SEAMOTH NEAR THE BEACHES.

• The following is a list of zones where one can find particular ores. It isn't a complete list, but will allow you to find everything you need in a timely fashion:
  

Lithium - Jellyshroom, Bulb Zone, Mushroom Forest, Lost River
Loose Lithium - Mushroom Forest, Mountains, Grand Reef, Shale, lost river
Magnetite - Jellyshroom is the only biome with large nodes
Loose Magnetite - Jellyshroom, mountains, cove tree cave, blood kelp zone, lost river
Rubies - Dunes, Spare Reef Caves, Lost River, Grand Reef, Underwater Islands
Diamonds - Lost River, Shale, Inactive Lava Zone, Sea Treader Path, sometimes caves
Table Coral - Shallows, Lost River
Copper - Mushroom forest, blood kelp zone, bulb zone, lost river, limestone, Inactive Lava Zone
Silver - Crag Zone, Mountains, Lost River, sandstone, Inactive Lava Zone
Gold - Jellyshroom, Blood Kelp Zone, Lost River, sandstone, shale
Lead - Sandstone, mountains, crash zone, lost river, Inactive Lava Zone
Titanium - Crash Zone, Dunes, Limestone, Lost River, Inactive Lava Zone
Metal Salvage - Crash Zone, Crag Zone, Kelp Forest
Kyanite - Inactive Lava Zone
Crystalline Sulfur - Lost River
Nickel - Lost River
Uraninite - Blood Kelp Zone, Blood Kelp Trench, Lost River, Inactive Lava Zone, Grand Reef
Quartz - Dunes, Crag Zone, Lost River, Inactive Lava Zone, Red Grassy Plains
If you're reading this guide and have any suggestions for additional information, feel free to share them for the next iteration.

Good luck, survivor!

https://batteriesnews.com/american-battery-technology-company-abtc-hires-veteran-chief-financial-officer-as-company-prepares-for-commercial-scale-manufacturing-operations/

The reason why I assume the Fireworks to be memories of his past wandering Middle-earth, is because of the last firework he lets off. A red and gold dragon which spreads terror and fear upon the Hobbits and then EXPLODES. This can be none other than Smaug and his slaying by Bard the Bowman.
Enjoy this read and enjoy the memories Gandalf collected from his Geras (Old Age) being alongside Men and Elves. Bearing our Grief, Bearing our Woes... and yet teaching Pity and Mercy on those who wish to do Evil.
​

"The fireworks were by Gandalf: they were not only brought by him, but designed and made by him**; and the special effects, set pieces, and flights of rockets were let off by** him. But there was also a generous distribution of squibs, crackers, backarappers, sparklers, torches, dwarf-candles, elf-fountains, goblin-barkers and thunder-claps. They were all superb. The art of Gandalf improved with age (Gêras→Old Age).

​

1. The Nightingales of Melian?

There were rockets like a flight of scintillating birds singing with sweet voices.

1. Two-Trees of Valinor being destroyed by Melkor & Ungoliant?

There were green trees with trunks of dark smoke: their leaves opened like a whole spring unfolding in a moment, and their shining branches dropped glowing flowers down upon the astonished hobbits, disappearing with a sweet scent just before they touched their upturned faces.

3.

There were fountains of butterflies that flew glittering into the trees;

1. The Eagles of Manwe warning the Numenoreans and then Earendil sailing to Valinor on Vingilote?

there were pillars of coloured fires that rose and turned into eagles, or sailing ships, or a phalanx of flying swans;

1. End of the 2nd Age, perhaps the Apocalypse?

there was a red thunderstorm and a shower of yellow rain;

1. Sauron raising his Army in the 3rd Age?

there was a forest of silver spears that sprang suddenly into the air with a yell like an embattled army, and came down again into the Water with a hiss like a hundred hot snakes.

7. Smaug coming out from the Lonely Mountain and being slain by Bard the Bowman. This was witnessed by Bilbo and is why it honoured him.

And there was also one last surprise, in honour of Bilbo, and it startled the hobbits exceedingly, as Gandalf intended. The lights went out. A great smoke went up. It shaped itself like a mountain seen in the distance, and began to glow at the summit. It spouted green and scarlet flames. Out flew a red-golden dragon – not life-size, but terribly life-like: fire came from his jaws, his eyes glared down; there was a roar, and he whizzed three times over the heads of the crowd. They all ducked, and many fell flat on their faces. The dragon passed like an express train, turned a somersault, and burst over Bywater with a deafening explosion.

There you have it! Gandalf shooting Fireworks as memories of his past (Geras the Old Age & Gelos the Laughter being shared).
What do you think the Fireworks represented?