Recently, the Jeep started bogging down when putting it into 1st and 2nd gear (3 speed). I’ve needed to give it a lot of gas when shifting gears to keep it from dying. It has never had issues like this in the past. My initial guess is the air filter. It has a pretty small 6inch air filter on a 1967 Buick 225 V6. It might just need to be cleaned out, but I would like to get a larger one for better air intake. I’m looking for recommendations.
Something else to note is that this year, when I changed the oil, I switched up the oil from Pennzoil 10W-30 synthetic to Rotella T4 15W-40. I assumed that this change would be fine since it was already using synthetic but now I’m not so sure.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks for reading! Bonus picture of the Jeep https://i.imgur.com/GtxSAjk.jpg

Looking to downsize and get rid of things I no longer have a use for. Feel free to offer on anything, but I'd prefer to bundle as much as possible. Local is 47403.

Case: https://imgur.com/a/DFkCKuy

Lian Li O11D (Original)	https://lian-li.com/product/pc-o11-dynamic/	Has been used for 2 years, nothing wrong with it as far as I could tell during disassembly. I do have the original box and accessories.	Looking to sell locally, unless someone is willing to pay for shipping. Ideally bundled with the other 2 parts. If not, I'd sell separately for $75
LINKUP - EZ Vertical GPU Bracket (Gen4x16)	https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Vertical-Bracket-Graphic-Holdedp/B091Q95ZXM?th=1	Apparently this is relatively universal, but I haven't looked for a list of compatible cases. I do not have the original box or any theoretical accessories.	Looking to sell locally, bundled with the case. Otherwise, I'd ask $50 Local or $60 shipped
Bitspower Touchaqua Sedna O11D	https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/bitspower-touchaqua-sedna-o11d-for-lian-li-o11-dynamic-front-pwm.html	I only ever ran clear fluid in this, but I also just deep cleaned it. The pump can be replaced with a DDC unlike some of the other Bitspower Distros that require you purchase their proprietary pump. I do not have the original box or the included opaque panel.	Looking to sell locally, bundled with the case. Otherwise, I'd ask $120 local or $130 shipped

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Fans: https://imgur.com/a/YDFyg0s

Arctic P12 PWM PST	https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-PWM-PST-Connessione/dp/B07GJGF56L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3I5FKDOJ9ZYG0&keywords=Arctic+p12+pwm+pst&qid=1685755682&s=industrial&sprefix=arctic+p12+pwm+ps%2Cindustrial%2C98&sr=1-3	Used these for a couple years. Came together in a pack of 5. From what I can recall, one of them has an inconsistent bearing, but maybe it was just a symptom of my case and vertical mount placement. These were cleaned well, before posting.	Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell these separately for $20 shipped
Arctic P12 PWM PST (SLIM)	https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-Slim-PWM-PST/dp/B08QDKGCCW?th=1	Used two of these for a couple years, but one is brand new. These were cleaned well, before posting.	Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell these separately for $20 shipped
ID-Cooling NO-12015-XT ARGB	https://www.amazon.com/ID-COOLING-Cooling-Cooler-Raidator-Chassis/dp/B09Z65X5RW	Used two of these for a couple years, but one is brand new. These were cleaned well, before posting. These also come with aftermarket spacers in case you want to mount them as intake on certain cases that cause issue. One of them has some yellowing in the center of the fan that can be seen if RGB is used.	Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell these separately for $25 shipped
Thermalright TL-C12C-S X3	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKKFBR9R	Brand new.	These are too cheap to bother selling separately, but I will gladly bundle them.
CoolerMaster MF120 Halo	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081W8Y4F7	Brand new.	Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell this separately for $20 shipped
Noctua NF-F12 Redux 1700RPM	https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=AK0SHCM09GKJ&keywords=NF-F12+redux&qid=1685755822&s=electronics&sprefix=nf-f12+redux%2Celectronics%2C94&sr=1-3	Used, but perfectly functional and clean, 120mm PWM Pressure optimized fan. Includes the multi-colored anti-vibration pads. Apparently the P12 is the budget variant of the F12, but they're probably close to identical.	Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell this separately for $15 shipped

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Watercooling: https://imgur.com/a/j7IUT8N

Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm Radiator	https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxos-Copper-Radiator-Triple/dp/B007R79E60	I used this once or twice over the span of 2 years, with clear fluids. It has a bit of discoloration in the exterior fins, but it worked fine for me. I flushed it recently with my hose and shook it quite vigorously, but you may want to do your own cleaning anyways.	I'm hoping to bundle most of this watercooling gear; otherwise, I'd sell this separately for $30 local, or $40 shipped
EKWB Coolstream Classic PE 360	https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-classic-pe-360	I used this for 2 years with clear fluid, but there was some plasticizer leach from my soft tubing. I tried my best to clean it via flushing with the above method, but you might want to do your own cleaning anyways.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $60 local, or $70 shipped
EK-Loop Leak Tester Flex	https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-leak-tester-flex	I don't think this was used more than a single time. I bought it second hand, but I was told it had been purchased in March. I already have a Barrow leak tester.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $20 local, or $25 shipped
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical	https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical	I can't recall how much use this saw, probably a couple builds. Has a bit of cosmetic damage.	Bundle only
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical	https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-140mm-fan-vertical	I can't recall how much use this saw, probably a single build. Might have a bit of cosmetic damage.	Bundle only
XSPC G1/4" Plug with 10k Sensor - Chrome	https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/fittings-connectors/xspc-g1-4-plug-with-10k-sensor-chrome-xspc-g14-10k-sensor-ch.html	Brand new	Otherwise, I'd sell for $12 shipped
Thermaltake Pacific C-PRO G1/4 16mm (5/8") OD Compression – Chrome (6 total)	https://www.thermaltake.com/pacific-c-pro-g1-4-petg-tube-16mm-od-compression-chrome-6-pack-fittings.html	bit of plasticizer leach, but still fully functional.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $20 local, or $30 shipped
Thermaltake Pacific G1/4 16mm (5/8”) OD Compression – Chrome (6 total)	https://es.thermaltake.com/thermaltake-pacific-g1-4-petg-tube-16mm-5-8-od-compression-chrome.html	Don't think these were used much at all.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $20 local, or $30 shipped
G1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary 90-Degree Extender (7 total)	https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=643	Used throughout a few builds, bit of cosmetic damage or plasticizer leach.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $30 local, or $40 shipped
Corsair Hydro X Series, 90° Rotary Adapter - Chrome (4 total)	https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Durability-Securely-Rotation-Mechanism/dp/B07WJVDNBB	Used throughout a few builds, bit of cosmetic damage if anything.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $15 local, or $20 shipped
Corsair Hydro X Series, Dual G1/4" 90-Degree Extender	I don't know what the hell this monstrosity is. Maybe it is corsair, maybe it isn't.	Only time I ever made use of this was when I needed to plumb a ball valve drain (they typically have a female g1/4). Has lots of cosmetic damage from attempting to remove the other end. The colors don't even match LOL.	Bundle only
Bitspower G1/4" Extender-30MM - Chrome (2 total)	https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2309	One is basically brand new and the other has a not so insignificant amount of plasticizer leach I cannot remove with soapy water.	Bundle Only
Bitspower Rotary Fitting "Q" - 360 Degree Water Cooling Accessory	https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/fittings-connectors/bitspower-rotary-fitting-q-360-degree-water-cooling-accessory-black-sparkle-finish.html	Bit of plasticizer leach in the top g1/4 threads.	Bundle Only
Alphacool 2-Way Ball Valve G1/4	https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-17141-Black-Hardware-Cooling-Accessory/dp/B015YRMCPO	Used this in a couple builds. bit of cosmetic damage but fully functional and clean.	Bundle Only
EK-Quantum Torque Drain Valve	https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-torque-drain-valve-black	Probably also only used once. Bought with the EK leak tester.	Bundle Only
EK-Quantum Torque 90 Degree Rotary - Nickle (6 total)	https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-torque-angled-90-black	One of them has a bit of cosmetic staining	Bundle Only
Primochill Liquid Utopia	https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-liquid-utopia-15ml-bottle	Bought this recent from frozencpu's sale but there doesn't appear to be a way to identify any manufacturers date.	Bundle Only
NZXT Kraken G12 GPU Cooling Bracket	https://nzxt.com/product/kraken-g12	Came with some other stuff I bought, but I'll never use this. It is used, and I did my best to clean it up.	Otherwise, I'd sell for $10 local, $15 shipped
upHere GPU Anti-sag brace	https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graphics-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B076GYL25H	Used a couple times; cosmetic damage where the screw sits.	Bundle Only

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Keyboard stuff:

Used Tezarre TK61 Pudding Keycap Optical Hotswap Keyboard: (Tape/Band-aid Mod, Lubed stabilizers + Gateron optical blacks) $55 shipped
BNIB EVGA Z12 Membrane gaming keyboards $15 (local only unless you're paying shipping)
Keyboard Accessories Bundle:Used Turquoise Resin Wrist RestUsed Gateron Milky Yellow Switches (Lubed and filmed)Used KBDFans Cherry Profile Cement Gray Japanese PBT KeycapsUsed Corsair Double-shot PBT keycapsUsed TaiHao ABS black/red/white keycaps (spares)Used RGB Shine-through PBT ASA LavaCaps (spares)$120 shipped
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/tQsrIbT

Peripherals:

ATH M50X headphones that were used a couple years (hence the pleather having been taken off due to peeling). These probably could use a new pair of earpads, but I did my best to deep clean these.$45 shipped
Wacom Intuos CTH-480 that has seen minimal use and has very little cosmetic damage on the back side. One of the best tablets you can use for osu! due to hover height and responsive latency.$60 shipped
GE UltraPro Surge Protector used for maybe a year including 7 outlets and 2 usb ports, 4 foot cord and 1500 joule protection rating$20 shipped
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/wDYSjNG
I'd also be willing to trade for a G-Wolves HSK Pro/Ace mouse.

I’m trying to buy used car and saw a 2018 Jeep Cherokee with hail damage (many small and fe big on hood) with 50+K miles. Clean title and car fax. The price is around 15k USD. Is it right price?
The catch is we might move to Canada with car. Can this car be imported into Canada, insured and driven?

I recently had my 2022 Grand Cherokee serviced by a dealership in Rockwall, TX. I'll let you deduce which one it was. Anyhow, they replaced my fuel pump at 20K, performed an oil change and tire rotation. After leaving the shop, my wife started hearing a flapping noise, but we couldn't go back I picked up the vehicle after service was closed.
We looked everywhere for the flapping/rattling noise and came up empty. In addition, I noticed orange sludge in my coolant reservoir. So, I took it to a dealer in Terrell, TX. Again, I'll let you deduce which one. 2 days after dropping it off, they call me to say that they fixed the coolant issue under warranty, but that I owe them $190 for one hour of labor because they found a brand new sprinkler head, most likely picked up off the tollway, wedged in my suspension. As it wasn't a warranty issue, they are charging me at least an hour for their 4 hours of looking.
Long story short, is this a normal thing to charge people for? Especially given the fact that they have coupons on their website for free multipoint inspections and the other work was under warranty?

I recently bought a 2018 JK Unlimited with 45k miles. I was a leased vehicle that had just been traded in. I have found that approximately every 1000 miles i have to add 1.25-1.5 quarts of oil. Is it normal for a newer Jeep with low miles to consume so much oil?

Introduction: Regular car service plays a vital role in maintaining the optimal performance and safety of our vehicles. It involves a comprehensive inspection, maintenance, and repair of various components, ensuring that our cars operate efficiently and reliably. In this article, we will explore the significance of car service and discuss the key benefits it offers to vehicle owners.

1. Enhancing Safety on the Road: Heading: Prioritizing Your Safety

A well-maintained vehicle significantly reduces the risk of accidents and ensures the safety of both the driver and passengers. Car service includes checking critical safety features such as brakes, tires, suspension, lights, and steering systems. Timely identification and rectification of any issues in these components can prevent potential hazards on the road, providing peace of mind to drivers.

1. Extending Lifespan and Reliability: Heading: Prolonging Your Vehicle's Lifespan

Regular car service helps in extending the lifespan of your vehicle. By adhering to manufacturer-recommended maintenance schedules, you can identify and address minor issues before they escalate into major problems. Routine oil changes, filter replacements, and inspections of belts, hoses, and fluid levels can prevent premature wear and tear, ensuring that your car remains reliable for years to come.

1. Improving Fuel Efficiency: Heading: Maximizing Your Fuel Economy

Efficient fuel consumption is not only economical but also environmentally friendly. During car service, technicians analyze fuel delivery systems, engine performance, and other crucial factors that affect fuel efficiency. By maintaining optimal tire pressure, ensuring clean air filters, and keeping the engine properly tuned, you can significantly improve your car's fuel economy, saving you money at the pump.

1. Avoiding Costly Repairs: Heading: Saving Your Wallet from Major Expenses

Neglecting regular car service may lead to more significant and costly repairs down the line. Regular inspections can identify potential issues early on, allowing for timely repairs or replacements of faulty components. By addressing minor problems promptly, you can prevent them from escalating into more severe damage, ultimately saving you from expensive repairs and breakdowns.

1. Preserving Resale Value: Heading: Protecting Your Investment

If you plan to sell or trade in your vehicle in the future, regular car service is essential for maintaining its resale value. Potential buyers are more likely to be attracted to a well-maintained vehicle with a documented service history. Regular maintenance not only keeps your car in excellent condition but also demonstrates your commitment to its care, enhancing its market appeal.

1. Accessing Expert Advice: Heading: Leveraging Professional Expertise

Car service provides an opportunity to consult with trained professionals who specialize in automotive maintenance. Technicians can offer valuable advice on how to best care for your specific make and model, including recommendations for optimal driving practices, maintenance intervals, and any potential recalls or updates from the manufacturer. This expertise ensures that you receive the best possible care for your vehicle.
Conclusion: Regular car service is a crucial aspect of responsible vehicle ownership. By prioritizing safety, extending your car's lifespan, improving fuel efficiency, avoiding costly repairs, preserving resale value, and leveraging professional expertise, you can enjoy a reliable and efficient driving experience. Remember to follow your manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule and consult with trusted professionals to keep your car in top shape for years to come.
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As the title says, I have an interesting issue. My 2019 jeep Cherokee trailhawk 65k mi. coolant temp was running just a little higher than normal, around 233 nominal. And I decided to pull over and check it out. My overflow reservoir was astonishingly low, an inch or so below the minimum line. So I got some coolant and filled it up and everything seemed fine.
After getting home, checked again and coolant level was seemingly okay.
Later that night. I checked again (no driving between) and it was back to below the minimum. So I added some more to see if maybe there was air in the system that had made its way out. Didn’t drive it except to move it into the garage afterward.
The next morning. Coolant back to below the minimum
Tomorrow I plan on getting one of those pressure test kits to find a leak, but I haven’t yet found a single puddle or residue. I plan on removing the front skid plate as that may be blocking any puddle from showing up and give me a better view.
Does this sound like it could be the oil cooler failing? I have no white smoke coming from exhaust and since it seems to leak even when sitting i’m inclined to believe there’s a leak somewhere.
Any tips from someone who’s looked at this before? Thanks in advance. I’ve done repairs on my last vehicle (15 fiat 500) but this one is new to me.

I’ve got a 2019 JLUR, coming up on 100k miles, majority of them highway, and I’m getting ready for the 100k tune up.
I plan on having ALL the fluids changed out, new spark plugs, suspension checked, everything the maintenance book calls for. Dealer wants over $2k for it, other shops want around $1500-ish. So here’s my dilemma:
I consider myself a car person. I rebuilt my first car, a ‘69 Firebird, and am rebuilding my newest classic, a ‘65 Corvair Coupe. I do what maintenance I’m capable of on my Jeep and the wife’s 2017 Challenger (oil, filters, brakes, tire rotations, installed a winch and lights and a lift myself, basic to moderate-level things), and we take good care of our stuff, but “computerized” vehicles still leave me apprehensive. I never had an issue with tearing apart my classics, but the Jeep leaves me anxious getting into its guts.
Any pro-tips from those of you who do as much maintenance as you can on your JLs?

I’m replacing all of my tires, I drive a 2015 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4WD. I also need to get a spare. Can I just use one of my old tires on a rim? My back tires have quite a good chunk of tread left, about 6/32 I’d say.
If I use it as a spare, how long would I be safe to drive on it without risking damaging something? Ideally I know I’d never drive on it long, but I am going on a 1,000 mile one way trip soon through the Rockies so I want to be prepared for worse case scenarios.

With summer heat raging already, living in a car can s#ck. Ive lived in my car a few times, and may be again next week. Anywhoo.. here are some things Ive learned that I hope will help anyone in that situation. Feel free to add more.
--- Keep a pee bottle. Nothing is worse than having to hold it or get up and find a bathroom in the middle of the night. Often times its not possible to park where you can 'use the bushes'. I use a plastic water bottle like for atheletes, cheap at thrift stores, and they seal well. Also the opening is large enough to..
----Always park in the shade when you can. The cooler you keep your car the faster it cools off at night. Sleeping in a hot car is all but impossible.
---Look for places to park that are on grass or dirt. Parking on concrete / pavement is like parking on a frying pan. The heat radiates all night. This is a hard one but not impossible, and the difference is life changing.
---Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot and others do not mind if you park there overnight. Certain stores do not allow it, but most of them do. I park in the employee area, but also away from other cars so as not to be noticed. Cracker Barrel also is cool with car campers but it can be hard to 'blend in' there. I have slept at them but its a last resort.
---Use black cloth or w/e you can to block the windows,especially the back ones. You do not want to be seen. You are doing nothing wrong but you do not want to be caught sleeping in your car anywhere in this day and age. Its a safety issue, not just criminals but cops. the cops will harass you and in some places arrest you for vagrancy.
---Spend as much as you can afford to keep your car in shape. Tires, oil changes, basic maintenance. Used tire stores can be a god send. If your car breaks down ( as my honda odyssey van recently did) it can be a terrible situation.
---charge your devices every chance you get. Even if your car has a plug, it is a bad idea to rely on that to power your phone all the time.
--If you can, get a piece of plywood for the back seat ( for non-van car dwellers). Car seats are hard to sleep on. You can get around that by having a piece of plywood cut at Lowe's that will fit on top of the back seat. Measure the width and length that is the biggest you can fit in there. You will probly have to have a couple pieces of wood or w/e to level it out, secure it, but it doesnt have to be a major construction job. as long as its flat and doesnt tip, now you have a better place to sleep. A foam pad on top and your quality of sleep and life just increased.
--If you are in a secure area ( as much as possible) leave the windows cracked slightly. In the winter this helps reduce condensation on the windows. Cops and Criminals both know that fogged up windows mean someone is inside.
--Multi story Parking decks are great places to park. They stay cooler as the sun doesnt heat the pavement. Casinos and hospitals can be good for this. Municipal/private parking garages can be a cheap alternative to having to rent a motel to get out of the heat. Even in downtown Atlanta, you can find 24 hour parking for less than 15 bucks.
---Baby Wipes. Unscented. Enough said.
--Truck stops can be dicey, but you can always sleep there and shower if you have an extra 15-20 bux to spend. if not see above.
Sorry for writing a book. Please add your own ideas, I would love to hear them.

Hi, looking for some quotes. Just accepted a job today in Oregon and have very short notice to move.
Ideally, pick up would be sometime between June 20th and 30th
Thanks in advance!

Hello, all!
I will be purchasing a vehicle through private sale from a friend in the next few weeks. The market value of the car in it's condition is close to $7500. The friend is being just super cool and generous and asking $4000 for a final sale. I am absolutely ecstatic that they are being so cool about it all, $4000 is well within my budget, and will not put me into danger financially at all.
Currently I do not have any debt. I have about $2000 in emergency savings, have medical and dental insurance for myself and kid. Have a great matching 401K set up with employer. The money I will be putting down to purchase this vehicle is in a separate savings fund specifically for purchasing a vehicle. I live in an extremely low cost of living area. After taxes and insurance taken out by employer I make around $2500 a month. The only things I pay for on a recurring basis are: Rent $800 (currently includes all utilities ) Food $300 Phone $25 Streaming services $15 And the car insurance will be $120 with pretty good coverage.
The car itself is nothing crazy. It's a 2014 jeep in excellent condition. The vehicle itself is not currently affected by any recalls, not has it ever been in a collision. No leins, it will be owned outright on my end. The car itself is nothing that I was purposefully seeking in terms of make or model. It will serve my lifestyle very well and I would be quite happy to own it.
What would y'all do? Would y'all keep it and maintain it as it should be and get the lifeout of it and then move on in time? Would y'all sell it afterward at market value and buy something else? I'm really not picky about vehicles, don't have crazy outthere needs in a vehicle.

i just got my first bike (1979 cb750) went to put oil in it and found out that it HAD an oil cooler on it, reddit told me that its the pump/housing from a cb900. where can i get a oil cooler, hoses, brackets, bolts, ETC?
doesnt have to be OEM but im not against buying used parts. would greatly appreciate it if its a direct fit bolt on

I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee from 2004 that's accelerating to 30 miles an hour from a dead stop without touching the gas pedal. I was wondering if this was normal.

I went to reverse and it just revs and moved a inch when i went to 4000ish rpms i put it back into park then reverse and acted normal does anyone have a idea whats wrong 2000 jeep Cherokee limited 4.0 172,500miles manual

Hey everyone, just wanted to share my story about my Cherokee and how I managed to solve the problem. When I got this Jeep the A/C was barely blowing cold (a necessity in Arizona) so I knew I had to get in there and see what was up. But for the meantime I put it off and delt with air only slightly colder than the outside. Well, a few days ago, I switched the A/C on, gave it some gas and as it came back down to idle, it died. Not sputtering, not backfiring, just smoothly cut out. It would restart and run normal with the A/C off, but as soon as I turned it on boom rough idle and dies. I went down a rabbit hole thinking it was the IAC and other throttle body issues but it turned out just to be low refrigerant level in my compressor. I found this out because the compressor was short cycling and with low levels of refrigerant it means less lubrication in the compressor, causing a strain on the engine. So I hooked up a gauge and a can of R-134a and filled it to ~30 psi. I know it’s not the correct way to do an A/C recharge but for the meantime it works. Shut off the engine, turned it back on and let it idle for a little and voila! No more dying at idle with the A/C on. Just wanted to post this here because I know that others have had this issue with no solution often found. Have a great day guys.

I'm (16nb) torn after my (15f) friend just ended our friendship of three plus years. Now this may seem like a typical teenage thing, but to me it's way more then that. We were really close knit to each other for the majority of our friendship. We went through covid together an virtual learning which was very stressful. They helped me with a toxic breakup that still has a lastly impression on me. We have hours of online time together from playing video games. We even planned to move in with eachother after highschool with a couple other friends.
This all came crumbling down today. I'll admit, in not completely innocent here, but according to them, neither was she.
We have another close friend, T(15m), that we hung out with alot. We called ourselves the three musketeers. For the past month I had noticed they were leaning away from me, talking to me less, and only talking to me if I started a conversation or joined theirs. The conversations however were extremely short, and ended soon after they started. I was getting nervous that we were all drifting apart, but it didn't make sense to me why they were still as friendly as ever with eachother. (I can say for certain they have nothing romantic going on)
I asked about it a couple times with some push from my therapist and our school counselor. My friend, who I'll call B, never responded. T did, however. I actually don't recall this, but apparently he had told me he wanted to wait until school was out to discuss it. I have a crumby memory and didn't remember (not an excuse). Today I was getting anxious and more scared then usual and started getting passive agressive. It wasn't my best move, I know, but I admit I put them in a pretty tough spot. After school, we all talked.
B said I had been making them uncomfortable by following them around and I pissed them off at school when I got upset. I'm not the best at communicating strong feelings, so I understand that. As for following them around, I would walk with them into school, after choir to homeroom and to and after lunch. I'd stopped talking to them at those times because they had their earbuds in. B then said they thought our relationship with unhealthy, and they couldnt handle being in it anymore. After that I wrote a long apology to the both of them while having a anxiety attack. That's when B said we had been toxic to eachother for a while now, which took me by surprise. She acknowledged the stuff we'd been through together and that we mixed as well as water and oil. It hurt a lot, but I excepted it. We still have eachothers contacts, but aren't friends anymore.
I won't discuss what T said, since it's very long and personal. Me and T have agreed to try again, just to take some time to recover from this.
It's been rough, and my weekends gonna be really tough. Thanks for reading this. Hope you have a good day or evening, where ever you are in the world.

Hey all. Long but detailed explanation below.
Family members twin engine boat. Twin 3L 4 cylinders. Old school distributor and coil setup with centrifugal advance, but ignition has been converted to electronic (Pertronics)
First time out this year.
Engine oil, coolant, all good.
Engines both ran and sounded beautiful under light load. Ran for a half hour to bring engines up to temperature slowly being the first run of the year, then stepped the boat up onto plane and headed down the lake at speed.
Engine temperatures were all solid, never ran outside normal temps at all.
Oil pressures good.
Slowed down about 5 minutes later and the port side engine had a knock.
Opened engine bay and yeah, it's a knock in the engine for sure.
Pulled plugs just out of curiosity and all 4 are evenly white. Like, lean engine white. No signs of coolant or anything. No electrode melting or anything.
We anchored and had lunch etc. On restart with the engine initially cooler the knock was reduced (almost gone actually for the first 5-10 seconds) but as it heated up it came back.
We ran at low rpm all the way back to the dock and left things be for now.
This engine has some work done on it this spring in the vicinity of the distributor (new alternator) so there's a chance maybe the timing got moved. Or maybe the advance advanced and didn't retard again as a spring is busted in the mechanical advance.
But....would this cause this sort of knock at this volume? Pinging / detonation I have heard before, but not a full on knock.
Thoughts?

I'm ready to upgrade from my 2013 Ford Focus and am looking for a vehicle that I can drive to work every day through a city, go on long distance trips, and tow a trailer carrying about one ton of mulch or soil. I'm looking to keep the budget below $40k, but am considering a relatively decked out Subaru Outback (Onyx edition XT or Limited XT) for ~$42k.
From my research the 2023 Jeep Cherokee, Subaru Forester (Wilderness), Kia Sportage, Chevy Blazer, Toyota RAV4, and Volvo XC40 (Or maybe it was the C40) are the only options in my budget range (based of of MSRP, not even sure what the out the door price is) and towing capacity need.
I am looking for a slight bit of luxury (non-cloth seats, butt warmer, rear camera) since I intend to own this car until the wheels fall off. Reliability is top priority though as my current car is notoriously problematic. This will be my first time buying a car on my own and I'm not really knowledgeable about cars, so all help is greatly appreciated.