2011 chevy cruze intake manifold

Chevy Malibu 2011. My brakes don't work and it looks like I have a ruptured steel braided hose leaking brake fluid. I'm trying to find the name of the part. The steel braided hose is part of a series of hoses that connect the brake fluid reservoir to the ABS unit. There are hard lines then the steel hose then more hard lines.
If anyone knows what this part is called, I'd greatly appreciate it. Can I just replace the steel braided hose or do I need to replace the entire assembly of lines?
Thanks in advance!

So was replacing the throttle body on my Astro and the bolt closest to the driver that holds the throat body down snapped. I started the car just to see if the tps code was gone and it started up albeit underpowered. But sounded just fine. Ran about how I excepted it to run with only 2/3 bolts holding down the throttle body(snapped this bolt before and it ran the same). Anyway the bolt that snapped screws into a compression type nut that sits in the plenum. Well went to fix the snapped bolt and it seems the other end of the bolt. And the nut are gone somewhere into the intake. I’m pretty sure it has not made it down into the cylinders as I think I would have been able to tell if there was a nut being crushed in there. After taking the plenum off I noticed it was cracked right where that nut sits. Probably from me stupidly over torqueing it. But even after renting a snake camera from autozome I can not find this damn thing. Any help is appreciated. Really hoping I won’t have to take the entire lower manifold off but I just don’t know where this nut could have gone

A loud high pitched squeal is coming from my engine bay after doing all new gaskets every where. Head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, intake plenum gaskets, throttle body gasket and egr spacer gasket, new egr, new ignition control module and new ignition coil. After starting it up there was an extremely loud high pitched whistle/squeal coming from my engine bay. Car is extremely extremely hesitant under load. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be going on?

Well after 3 gaskets I have an oil leak on the rear part of the manifold. I didn’t use the corked gaskets, I used ultra black and then the right stuff to seal the walls.
It only happens when driving. Is it too much pressure and something else causing it?
My assumption is that the intake may be warped but wanted yo see if you all had any other things it could be.
Thanks!

https://twitter.com/RichNye13/status/1662966467107618816?t=hQQ223ajRAmF1BW3tR90uA&s=19

I have a bad idle for my 2000 integra gsr, I have tried extensively to fix it.
I have replaced the idle air control valve and Map sensor. The throttle position sensor is reading in factory spec (as well as all other sensors). I have no fast air idle controller thing as it's manual.
I have no vacuume leaks. I am 100% sure.
I have no check engine lights.
I have bled the coolent system.
It idles fine until you rev the car or drive it. Than it bounces between 1500-3000 for awhile than returns to normal.
I occasionally get an EVAP code for EVAP canister area.
I can manually force it to idle badly by plugging the hole in the intake manifold that bypasses air around the throttle plate.
The car does stall when the intake is plugged meaning I'm not leaking through the throttle body gasket or the intake manifold gasket.
Please If anyone has any ideas I'll take anything. I'm sick of this.

Hello! I think my car is not performing as expected. I have a 123D. I feel like the power is significantly reduced.. Recently changed intake manifold (oem). The car has no errors.
What can cause this? Thanks.

I have a bad idle for my 2000 integra gsr, I have tried extensively to fix it.
I have replaced the idle air control valve and Map sensor. The throttle position sensor is reading in factory spec (as well as all other sensors). I have no fast air idle controller thing as it's manual.
I have no vacuume leaks. I am 100% sure.
I have no check engine lights.
I have bled the coolent system.
It idles fine until you rev the car or drive it. Than it bounces between 1500-3000 for awhile than returns to normal.
I occasionally get an EVAP code for EVAP canister area.
I can manually force it to idle badly by plugging the hole in the intake manifold that pypasses air around the throttle body.
The car does stall when the intake is plugged meaning I'm not leaking through the throttle body gasket or the intake manifold gasket.
Please If anyone has any ideas I'll take anything. I'm sick of this.

Anyone have any ideas as to why I could not be getting spark? She cranks but isnt getting any spark. Just did a head gasket job, intake manifold gasket job and now it doesnt want to turn over. 89 5.0

I've been having this very irritating issue for the past few months where the knock retard on my Speed 3 will basically pin itself at 8 around 2-2.5K RPM. It only happens when the car's fully warmed up, happens basically every time I get near 2K, and seems to be worse at lower loads. Otherwise, the car runs fine, just slower than it should be when this happens. No knocking, misfires, or any other weird noise that I can hear. The only codes my Accessport is showing are for the O2 sensor and EGR valve for my catless downpipe and EGR delete respectively. I have a Damond rear motor mount and the other 2 mounts are less than a year old. The TMM has the Corksport stiffener insert thing.
It happened a couple weeks after I tore apart basically the entire outside of my engine (valve cover, timing cover, intake manifold, turbo) for a timing job, injector service (including Corksport seals), new spark plugs, and more; I don't know if it's related to the work I did but I wouldn't be too surprised. I did soak the knock sensor in carb cleaner on accident, but the sensor is sealed and I don't think that would've done any damage. I also pulled my manifold back off a couple weeks ago to walnut blast my valves, and while I was in there I looked for something that might be loose enough to throw off the sensor and didn't find anything out of the ordinary.
My guess right now is that something is vibrating so much around 2K that it's making the knock sensor go crazy, but I would think that I would hear something when this is happening. Like I said, it sounds completely normal. My only other thoughts would be either a bad sensor or bad wiring, but I don't want to spend the >$100 on an OEM sensor that may or may not fix my problem and I don't even know where I would start with wiring.
Does anyone have any ideas for what the issue might be, or for something to look for that might cause something like this? I'm happy to provide more information if needed, and can post a datalog if that might help.

Hello, today I added transmission fluid in my Chevy cruze 2017, someone told me that transmission needs reset, so do you know how to reset it ? It has combination like old cruze models ? or it needs reset by program... Sorry for my English

So I have to take my intake manifold off to replace the hoses to the heater core- what other things should I take care of while I have it off?

So I'm sitting in line at the car wash taking forever because their kiosk was broken somehow. While sitting there for about 10-15 minutes, I notice the AC start to blow warm, the temp gauge goes up, then all of a sudden a burst of steam and the attendant tells me I'm pouring out coolant.
I pull over, let it cool down, put some more coolant in (the place was right next door to an autoparts store) and take it home, no problems.
Topped off with coolant now, there are no leaks. And I'm pretty sure the fan has gone out, that's why it overheated on idle - doesn't overheat when the air blows over the radiator while in motion. Thankfully not the intake manifold.
Anyway, do Grand Marquis have a pressure release for the coolant? Should I be ok? Nothing leaking now? Will def get the fan replaced, but coolant system wise - anything I should look out for?